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University
of Rhode Island GreenShare Factsheets
Daylily
Culture
Daylilies
(Hemerocallis spp.) are dependable, easy-care perennials.
They are prolific and colorful bloomers, and their color range and
height variation allows them to fill a variety of garden niches.
Daylilies are tolerant of drought and flooding, immune to heat stress,
tolerant of most soils and grow well in full sun or light shade.
Relatively free of pests, daylilies make a carefree addition to
the garden. Different varieties of daylilies can be in bloom from
late spring until autumn. Individual flowers last only one day,
but since each plant produces many buds, the total blooming time
of a well-established clump may be 30 to 40 days. Many varieties
have more than one flowering period. Daylilies
are used for color in shrub borders and in perennial beds. They
are excellent ground covers on slopes. Once established, their roots
will help prevent erosion. Small cultivars can be planted in containers.
• Daylilies
can range in height from 8 inches to 5 feet. Flower size ranges
from as small as 2 inches to as large as 8 inches. • Daylilies may
bloom the year that they are planted, even from a relatively
small plant. They will reach full size in three to four
years. •Daylilies
grow best in direct sun or light shade. Cultivars with darker-colored
flowers should be protected from strong afternoon sun, which
may
fade the petals. • Daylilies prefer
slightly acidic (pH 6 to 6.5), well-drained soil with plenty
of organic matter. They are, however, very tolerant
and will grow in almost any soil with adequate drainage. If drainage
is a problem, plant daylilies in raised beds. • The best time
to plant daylilies is during the early fall or early spring,
when soil temperatures are moderate, although daylilies
will tolerate planting during any time of year. Plant daylilies
18 to 24 inches apart. Set the plant so that the crown (the
point
where roots and foliage meet) is no deeper than 1 inch below the
surface of the soil.
• Water plants thoroughly after planting, and continue to deep-soak
them at least weekly until established. Although daylilies are
drought-tolerant once established, consistent watering while budding and flowering
improves the quality of the flowers. • Although daylilies
will grow adequately without fertilizer, light fertilization
is recommeded for optimum growth. They prefer moderate
nitrogen and higher rates of phosphorous and potash. Slow-release
fertilizers are best for daylilies. Fertilize in the early
spring
as new growth appears, and once again in midsummer. Water after
applying fertilizer. Mulch helps to conserve moisture in the
soil
and control weeds. •
Remove spent blooms and seedpods after flowering to improve appearance
and encourage rebloom. When all the flowers on a scape (the daylilies¡ flowering
stalk) are finished, cut off the scape close to ground level. Remove
dead foliage from daylilies as they die back in the
fall. Daylilies
rapidly form dense clumps. Dividing the clumps is not essential,
but will help the plant to continue to produce optimal flowers.
Dividing is usually done following flowering, but plants will tolerate
division throughout the entire growing season. To divide a clump,
lift the entire clump out of the soil with a garden fork. To separate
the clump into individual fans (sections with a set of roots and
leaves), shake it to remove as much soil as possible, then work
the roots of individual fans apart. Daylily
seeds are ready to harvest when pods turn brown and start to split.
Seeds germinate in approximately two weeks. Plant freshly harvested
seeds in pots or flats in any suitable germinating mixture--vermiculite
or a commercially available soilless mixture containing peat moss,
vermiculite and bark, styrofoam beads or perlite. Cover the seeds
to a depth of 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Place germinating containers in partial
shade to prevent them from drying out. Seedlings should be transplanted
to flats or pots when they reach 4 inches in height. Space 2 inches
apart in flats or transfer to 3-inch pots. Seedlings can be transferred
to nursery beds when they develop adequate roots and are from 4-6
inches tall. It usually requires two years for plants to develop
and flower from seeds. Daylilies
have few disease or pest problems. Thrips, spider mites, aphids,
slugs and snails are the main pests of
daylilies. Aphids feed on both daylily foliage and flower buds.
Aphids are more of a problem during the cool spring period. In addition
to the tiny insects themselves, cast-off skins (resulting from molting)
indicate their presence. A serious infestation can cause foliage
damage and mar the appearance of flower buds. Thrips
can be a serious daylily pest. Small, winged insects about the size
of an exclamation point (!), they find their way into plant crowns
and bloom buds prior to opening, causing misshapen or discolored
blooms. Spider
mite damage of daylily foliage often goes undetected until the damage
is severe, as the pest itself is difficult to see. Russeting or
speckling of the foliage results from the mites feeding on the chloroplast
of cells. A serious infestation can reduce the vigor of plants appreciably.
Leaves may lose their characteristic green color, turn tan and even
die under more severe mite pressure. There
are several sprays available for the control of these pests. Read
labels carefully before applying any pesticide. Hybridizers
have made great improvements in daylilies. The only colors originally
available were yellow, orange and a brassy reddish color. The
daylily
color range now includes palest lemon, bright yellow and gold,
orange, scarlet, carmine, maroon, wine-reds, pale pink, rose,
lavender,
lilac, grape and melon. Blues are the only color still unavailable
in daylily flowers. Near-whites are found among the palest tints
of yellow, pink, lavender or melon. Adapted
from the University of Georgia College of Agricultural & Environmental
Services, Cooperative Extension Service, 1999
Pesticides
are poisonous! Read and follow all safety precautions on labels.
Handle carefully and store in original containers out of reach
of children, pets or livestock. Dispose of empty containers
immediately, in a safe manner and place. Pesticides should never
be stored with foods or in areas where people eat.
When trade names are used for identification, no product endorsement
is implied, nor is discrimination intended against similar materials.
Be sure that the pesticide you intend to use is registered for
the state of use.
The user of this information assumes all risk for personal injury
or property damage.
For more
information, call the URI CE Gardening and Food Safety Hotline
at 1-800-448-1011 or (401)874-2929 from outside Rhode Island;
Monday-Thursday between 9 am and 2 pm.
University
of Rhode Island Cooperative Extension provides equal program
opportunities.
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