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University
of Rhode Island GreenShare Factsheets
Mulch
While mulches are not new to landscapes, interest in them
is growing as gardeners adopt water conserving habits and other
environmentally sound practices. Mulch is an organic or inorganic
material applied to the soil surface during the growing season
or applied over the plant during the dormant season. An important
characteristic of mulch is its ability to insulate a plant and
its roots from the effects of extreme temperature fluctuations.
Ideal mulches must allow water and air to enter and exit
the soil. They should be attractive, odor-free and stay in place.
Ideal mulches should not compact or become a fire hazard. Although
no single mulch material will meet all these requirements, select
one that best suits the needs of your site.
Conserves soil moisture
Moderates soil temperature by insulating the soil surface
Reduces soil compaction caused by equipment and people
Reduces soil erosion from wind or water
Slowly increases soil fertility through decomposition (organic mulches
only)
Reduces incidence of disease by protecting above-ground plant parts from
splashes that carry soil-borne inoculum
Reduces fruit rot by eliminating contact between fruit and soil
Reduces winter injury by minimizing temperature variation, reducing water
loss in plants and decreasing heaving of plant crowns and roots
Aids weed control
Most gardeners use organic mulches, which are derived from
plant material and imitate naturally occurring forest or prairie
litter. Gardeners can develop their own organic mulches by recycling
yard waste such as chopped or shredded leaves, branches, wood
chips or grass clippings. Organic mulches can also be purchased
from garden centers.
An important value of organic mulches is that they continuously
add organic matter to the soil surface. Earthworms and other
organisms will incorporate this material into the upper soil
area. When the planting bed is renovated, the gardener can work
this organic mulch into the soil deeply enough to actually incorporate
it into the root zone.
Inorganic mulches include lava rocks, pebbles,
plastic or landscape fibers which neither break down and improve
soil structure nor add nutrients to the soil. If a site requires
renovation, inorganic mulches can be difficult to remove, whereas
organic mulches can be easily incorporated into the soil.
Dark-colored inorganic mulches, such as plastics, warm the
soil more than organic mulches. Black plastic will raise the
soil temperature to approximately five degrees higher than uncovered
soil. Clear plastic will warm the soil even more, to 10 degrees
higher than bare soil.
Plastic is an effective mulch material for some crops, such
as strawberries or tomatoes, where the plastic is removed each
year. Plastic is not an effective mulch, however, for landscape
plantings containing trees or shrubs, as it restricts movement
of gases between the soil and the atmosphere. An adequate root
system to support vegetative growth will not develop under plastic,
which prevents adequate root intake of oxygen. Regulation of
the proper level of soil moisture is also difficult under plastic.
A drip irrigation system located under this mulch is necessary
to efficiently and effectively apply water.
Unlike plastic, landscape fabrics (geotextiles), are porous.
Oxygen and other gases and water enter and exit these fabrics,
making them a suitable mulch for trees and shrubs. There are,
however, several disadvantages to using landscape fabrics as
mulch--when the pores in this fabric become filled with soil
or other organic material, for example, weed seed can germinate
above the fabric. If the fabric is covered with an organic mulch
to hide its appearance and extend its life, the roots of woody
plants can also become intertwined with the fabric, and considerable
root loss can occur when these plants are transplanted. Always
cover landscape fabrics with an inorganic mulch such as pebbles.
Another disadvantage of landscape fabric is its tendency to slide
off of sloped surfaces.
Growing Season Mulches
Some mulches are intended to function for only
a brief time. A mulch applied to a newly seeded lawn, for example,
is designed to reduce loss of soil and plant moisture until the
turf is established. On steep slopes, mulch can prevent erosion
until a new planting is established.
In spring, allow the soil to reach the optimum temperature
before applying mulch. For warm-season crops, such as tomatoes,
apply mulch when soil temperatures reach 70 degrees F. Cool-season
annuals such as pansies are mulched in early spring as soon as
new growth begins.
In summer, mulching materials low in nitrogen, such as
straw or coarse sawdust, should be fortified with a nitrogen
fertilizer. One tablespoon of ammonium sulfate per one bushel
of mulch, applied once or twice in spring, will prevent yellowing
of plant material. Scatter fertilizer uniformly on surface of
mulch, then slowly water in.
Dormant Season Mulches
Dormant season or winter mulches reduce injury by moderating temperature fluctuation
and reducing foliar moisture loss. These mulches reduce frost heaving of
the crown and upper roots caused by repeated thawing and freezing of soil
water. In the fall, apply a loose mulch after several hard freezes (temperatures
below 20-30 degrees F). If applied too early, the mulch will delay the
plant processes that allow the plant to tolerate cold temperatures. After
mulching, avoid pruning, adding nitrogen or any activities that stimulate
new growth. Rose bushes and strawberries especially need winter mulch.
Remove mulch in spring when new growth is visible. If a late freeze threatens,
re-cover plants.
Over-mulching (maintaining mulch at depths greater than
three to four inches) has reached epidemic proportions in managed
landscapes. With fine organic mulches, such as compost or shredded
leaves, maintain a two to three inch layer. For coarse materials,
such as wood chips, maintain a three to four inch layer. Mulches
decompose in time; their rate of decomposition depends on particle
size and composition. Plan to add more mulch occasionally, but
do not exceed the recommended layer depths.
Use very little, if any, mulch on poorly drained soils,
for the mulch will keep the soil too wet, fostering both root
rot and growth of toxic compounds injurious to the plants. If
mulch must be used in a wet environment, use a coarse, textured
mulch only.
Grass clippings are an effective mulch but require some
preparations before use. Allow the clippings to dry before application;
grass clippings are high in water and nitrogen and readily ferment.
The heat and ammonia released in fermentation will injure or
kill other plants. Before applying the dried clippings, mix with
compost or an organic material low in nitrogen. Do not mulch
with grass clippings that have been treated with an herbicide.
Do not use reflective mulches, such as white rock, close
to a building. The reflected heat warms the building in summer,
increasing the cost of air conditioning and also causing winter
injury to plants from unseasonable rapid warming. Be cautious
about using a wood mulch near the foundation area of a home.
This provides an environment attractive to termites from which
the pest can gain access to the home. Use a crushed, non-white
rock border to keep wood two feet away from the home.
Table 1. Mulches and their characteristics
| Mulch |
Advanatages |
Disadvantages |
Reapplication Frequency |
| Peat |
Coarse textured
Increases water-holding capacity of most soils
Over time, could increase soil acidity |
Expensive
Difficult to re-moisten after it has dried
Repels water
|
1 year |
|
Wood Chips/
Shredded Wood
|
Decompose slowly
Improve the soil
Long lasting and attractive
Relatively inexpensive
Easily applied |
Injury to plants may occur if applied too heavily
Wood chips may not cling well on steep slopes
Do not use near building foundations
|
1-2 years, depending on size and type of
wood |
| Straw |
Inexpensive
Readily available |
Coarse appearance
May contain weed seeds and some diseases |
Needs frequent applications |
| Lawn Clippings |
Readily available
Usually free
Decompose slowly
Improve the soil |
May mat down and interfere with
water and air movement if applied too thickly
May contain weed seeds
May contain herbicides |
1 season |
| Leaves |
Readily available
Usually free
Decompose slowly
Improve the soil |
May mat down and interfere with
water and air movement if applied too thickly
Should be shredded and partially decomposed before using (prevents matting
and soil nitrogen binding) |
1 season |
| Pine Needles |
Fragrant
Decompose slowly
Improve the soil
Over time, will increase soil acidity |
Not always available
May mat down if applied too thickly |
1-2 years |
| Coca Bean Hulls |
Attractive and fragrant
Good soil conditioner |
Tends to float away during heavy
rains
Expensive
Will decompose by mildewing |
1 season |
| Plastic |
Completely inhibits weed growth
until it tears
Helps garden beds look neat |
Cracks easily from low temperatures
or ultra violet instability, allowing weed growth
Expensive
Allows no water or air to enter or leave soil, stressing roots under mulched
plants
Needs a supplemental irrigation source |
Variable |
Lava or
Crushed Rock |
Sometimes used to give a formal
look |
Expensive
Lava is very lightweight--tends to blow, roll or wash away
Allows weed growth
More ornamental than practical |
Indefinite |
| Newspaper |
Prevents weed germination
Effective between vegetable rows
Readily available
Sterile |
Can blow away if not weighted down
Unsightly in landscape setting |
1 season |
| Landscape Fabric |
Allows water and air to permeate
Durable
Suppresses most weeds |
Weeds may germinate on top
of fabric
Cover with light top mulch to prevent fabric deterioration (landscape
fabrics that are ultra violet stabilized do not need to be covered)
May shed mulch cover on steep slopes |
Indefinite |
Adapted from Donald
H. Steinegger and Amy Greving, Nebraska Extension, 2000
Pesticides
are poisonous! Read and follow all safety precautions on labels.
Handle carefully and store in original containers out of reach
of children, pets or livestock. Dispose of empty containers
immediately, in a safe manner and place. Pesticides should never
be stored with foods or in areas where people eat.
When trade names are used for identification, no product endorsement
is implied, nor is discrimination intended against similar materials.
Be sure that the pesticide you intend to use is registered for
the state of use.
The user of this information assumes all risk for personal injury
or property damage.
For more
information, call the URI CE Gardening and Food Safety Hotline
at 1-800-448-1011 or (401)874-2929 from outside Rhode Island;
Monday-Thursday between 9 am and 2 pm.
University
of Rhode Island Cooperative Extension provides equal program
opportunities.
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