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University
of Rhode Island GreenShare Factsheets
Peach
& Nectarine Culture
Peaches have been grown in Asia for
more than two thousand years, and produced for centuries in
the United States. Peaches
are considered the "Queen" of the fruits and are second only
to apples in popularity as a deciduous tree fruit because of
their fine flavor and many uses. Nectarines can be used in the same way as peaches, and may
be considered as substitutes for peaches. The only difference
between peaches and nectarines is the lack of fuzz on the nectarine
skin. Nectarines tend to be smaller and more aromatic than peaches
and have more red color on the fruit surface.
Fresh peaches provide respectable amounts of the antioxidant
vitamins A and C in addition to potassium and fiber. Nectarines
provide twice the vitamin A, slightly more vitamin C, and much
more potassium than peaches.
There are hundreds of different peach cultivars (varieties),
which can be divided into two categories--the freestones and
the clingstones. In freestone types, the flesh separates readily
from the pit. In the clingstone type, the flesh clings tightly
to the pit. The flesh may be either yellow or white. Freestone
types are usually preferred for eating fresh or for freezing,
while clingstone types are used primarily for canning. Nectarines
may be either yellow or white-fleshed.
High quality peaches and nectarines are firm and free from
defects such as bruising and insect or disease damage. The best
ripe peaches and nectarines have a deep yellow or creamy white
color, although color varies according to cultivar. Green color
indicates immaturity. Peaches and nectarines harvested when too
green may shrivel or fail to develop a desirable flavor upon
ripening. The red blush makes the fruit attractive but may not
be helpful in determining fruit maturity.
Peaches and nectarines that cannot be consumed or processed
immediately should be stored in an area with temperatures of
32 degrees F and high-humidity (a home refrigerator may work
well). It is best to use or process the fruit as quickly as possible
since it is highly perishable under high temperatures and not
well suited to prolonged cold storage (more than 14 days).
Peach trees are subject to some serious insect pests and
diseases. A season's crop may frequently be lost either by flower
bud kill due to low winter temperatures or to bloom kill by late-spring
frosts. The best chances for success in growing peaches in the
home landscape result from selecting bud-hardy cultivars, protecting
the bloom from late-spring frosts and managing insects and diseases.
Peach and nectarine cultivars do not require cross pollination
and set satisfactory crops with their own pollen. A single peach
or nectarine tree can, therefore, be expected to bear crops in
the home landscape if flower buds or flowers are not killed by
low temperatures.
Peaches or nectarines require full sunlight and should
not receive shade from buildings or tall trees. If possible,
select a site with a high elevation so that cold air can drain
away from the tree on a cold night during bloom. The best site
will have well drained, sandy, loam type soil. Peach or nectarine
tree roots or rootstocks will not tolerate soils where water
remains on or near the surface for more than one hour after a
heavy rain.
Prepare the soil one to two years before planting so that
soil pH, organic matter, and nutrient status can be modified
for the production of high quality peaches and/or nectarines.
Prepare a bed at least 5 to 6 feet in diameter by cultivating
(spading) 10 to 12 inches deep and adding organic matter such
as manure, leaves, grass clippings and compost. Have your soil
tested and apply lime and fertilizer as recommended (See GreenShare
Factsheet on soil testing). For best
results, sample soils 6 to 8 inches deep every two to three years.
Plant your tree in the spring in the center of your prepared
area. Keep the bud union 1 inch above the soil. Planting a peach
or nectarine tree too deep in the soil can cause poor growth
or death.
The open center system is recommended for peach and nectarine
trees for maximum sunlight exposure, maximum yield and best quality.
Pruning and training should be done in the year of planting and
every year after to develop a strong, well balanced framework
of scaffolds (a tree with a strong trunk and well positioned
side branches), as well as to maintain the balance between vegetative
growth and fruit production.
Immediately after planting, prune the tree back to a height
of 26 to 30 inches. Cut off all side branches to leave a whip
(a shoot without lateral branches or with lateral branches removed)
that is 26 to 30 inches tall. Although this may sound drastic,
the best shaped open center trees come from those pruned initially
to a whip.
During the first year, remove diseased, broken and low-hanging
limbs. Remove vigorous upright shoots that may have developed
on the inside of the main scaffolds, which, if left, could shade
the center.
During the second and third years, remove low-hanging, broken
and/or diseased limbs. To maintain the open vase, remove any
vigorous upright shoots developing on the inside of the tree,
leaving the smaller shoots for fruit production. Finally, prune
the vigorous upright limbs on the scaffolds by cutting them back
to an outward growing shoot.
The principles used to develop the trees are used to annually
maintain the size and shape of the mature tree. Remove low-hanging,
broken and dead limbs first, then remove the vigorous upright
shoots along the scaffolds. Lower the tree to the desired height
by pruning the scaffolds to an outward growing shoot at the desired
height.
In years without frost and freeze damage, more peaches will
set than the tree can support, and the fruit must be thinned.
Approximately three to four weeks after bloom, or when the largest
fruit are as large as a quarter, fruits should be removed by
hand so that the remaining peaches are spaced about every 8 inches.
Fruit thinning will allow the remaining fruits to develop optimum
size, shape and color, as well as prevent depletion of the tree.
Apply 1/2 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer or its equivalent
7 to 10 days after planting and the same amount again 40 days
after planting. Broadcast the fertilizer evenly 8 to 12 inches
away from the trunk. In the second and third years after planting,
the tree should receive 3/4 pound of 10-10-10 in March and again
in May. Mature peach trees (4 to 10 years of age) should receive
1 to 2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer each in March and May. If
the tree is vigorous and there are no fruit expected, only the
March application is necessary. Broadcast the fertilizer around
the outer edge of the tree keeping the trunk area free of fertilizer.
Peach trees need 18 inches of new growth each year. Remove
the sod from under the tree, mulch and/or irrigate as needed.
Irrigation will increase yield particularly if it is applied
three weeks before harvest.
It is very difficult to grow peaches or nectarines in the
home garden without an effective pest control program. Common
insects and mites affecting peaches and nectarines include tarnished
plant bug, stink bug, oriental fruit moth, plum
curculio, peach tree borers, Japanese
beetle, green June beetle and European
red mite.
Common peach and nectarine diseases are peach
leaf curl, brown rot, scab, bacterial
spot and powdery mildew.
Refer to GreenShare Factsheets on these specific pests and
diseases for more information and control recommendations.
Adapted from Gary Gao, Ohio
State University Extension, 2000
Pesticides
are poisonous! Read and follow all safety precautions on labels.
Handle carefully and store in original containers out of reach
of children, pets or livestock. Dispose of empty containers
immediately, in a safe manner and place. Pesticides should never
be stored with foods or in areas where people eat.
When trade names are used for identification, no product endorsement
is implied, nor is discrimination intended against similar materials.
Be sure that the pesticide you intend to use is registered for
the state of use.
The user of this information assumes all risk for personal injury
or property damage.
For more
information, call the URI CE Gardening and Food Safety Hotline
at 1-800-448-1011 or (401)874-2929 from outside Rhode Island;
Monday-Thursday between 9 am and 2 pm.
University
of Rhode Island Cooperative Extension provides equal program
opportunities.
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