|
back
| home
University
of Rhode Island GreenShare Factsheets
Cultural
and Mechanical Weed Control in Vegetable Gardens
Weeds are unwanted plants in gardens that reduce available
moisture, nutrients, sunlight and growing space needed by crop
plants. Their presence can reduce crop growth, quality and yield.
In addition, they can make harvest difficult. Weeds also provide
cover for diseases, insects and animals (rodents, box turtles,
snakes, etc.). Garden weeds are hard to control because they
grow rapidly, produce vast numbers of seeds, and spread aggressively
by vegetative structures and/or seeds. A combination of cultural
and mechanical weed control methods can be quite effective in
controlling weeds. There are several methods that can be used
in a combined, coordinated effort to control weeds.
Fast growing vegetable
crops can effectively suppress weeds by shading. One method
of weed control is to select
a crop that is capable of suppressing (shading) weeds. The following
vegetable crops are listed according to their ability to suppress
weeds.
|
Ability of Crops to Suppress Weeds:
|
|
GOOD
|
POOR
|
| Squash |
Lettuce |
| Beans |
Carrot |
| Pumpkins |
Pepper |
| Peas, southern |
Greens |
| Cucumbers |
Onions |
| Corn, sweet |
Peas, garden (English) |
| Melons |
Broccoli and Cabbage |
| Potatoes, Irish |
Radishes |
| Sweet Potatoes |
|
| Tomatoes |
|
Suppression of weeds by crops works best when the crop germinates
quickly and gets a head-start on weeds. To achieve this, plant
crops at the proper depth, with adequate moisture and fertilizer.
It is equally important to purchase high quality vegetable seeds
or transplants that are free of weed seeds or seedlings. Garden
soils should be tested and soil test recommendations followed
to stimulate rapid crop growth capable of weed suppression. See GreenShare
Factsheet on soil testing for more information.
Fast growing 'smother' crops
can be used to reduce weed germination in succeeding crops.
For this purpose, smother
crops are usually planted in the fall and killed by tillage the
following spring prior to planting vegetables. The straw residue
from smother crops (i.e. rye, ryegrass, etc.) can inhibit early
season germination of weeds such as common lambsquarters, common
purslane and redroot pigweed by 75% or more.
NOTE: Avoid planting smother crops where small seeded
crops such as lettuce will be seeded the following year or reduction
in germination can occur. Smother crops are also effective in
suppression of many winter annual weeds such as henbit and chickweed.
Rotate crops to different
areas of the garden so that a specific crop is never planted
in one area for two years
in a row.
Mulches can be used to prevent
weed germination and growth and ultimately reduce time and
labor required to remove
weeds. Mulches fall into two categories -- organic mulches, which
are derived from plant material, decompose naturally in the soil,
and inorganic mulches, which do not decompose, must be removed
from the soil. Mulches help to increase soil moisture retention,
enhance soil warming and reduce weeds.
Organic Mulches: Some of the most commonly used
organic mulching materials are manures, bark chips, ground
corncobs, sawdust, grass clippings, leaves, newspapers (shredded
or in layers) and straw. Organic mulches allow some flexibility
in fertilizing and watering, since they can be raked back from
the plants. They should normally be applied in a uniform layer
three to four inches deep around the base of the vegetable
plant. Do not mulch with straw containing weed seeds. If straw
does contain weed seeds, it should be moistened throughout,
kept moist until the weed seeds germinate and then air dried
several times to kill germinating seedlings.
Inorganic Mulches: Black plastic is the most frequently
used inorganic mulch. Clear plastic is not recommended because
it does not exclude the light that weed seeds need to germinate.
Verify that there is adequate moisture in the soil before
any mulch is applied, especially plastic films. It is also
necessary to apply most of the fertilizer required by the
plants before the plastic is installed. There are also several
durable weed fabrics that are very effective in weed suppression.
They are capable of lasting up to 20 years or more when covered
with soil.
The decision of whether to use an organic or inorganic mulch
really depends on the season of the year and what the gardener
is trying to accomplish. Organic mulches should be applied after
the soil temperature has warmed in the spring. If applied to
cold soils, the soil will warm slowly and the growth rate of
most vegetables will be reduced. Inorganic mulches can increase
the soil temperature by at least 6 to 8 degrees F, making their
greatest value early in the growing season when soils are naturally
cool.
Since emerged weeds present at seeding or transplanting
are capable of growing rapidly, it is important to kill all weeds
prior to planting. Weeds that emerge after planting should be
removed before they are more than 3 inches tall. Large weeds
are difficult to remove without uprooting vegetable plants. Early
season competition between vegetables and weeds may reduce crop
growth, yield and quality. Removal by hand or cultivation can
be used to manually rid the garden of weeds.
Weeds can be hand pulled or removed using hand tools. Several
small hand tools are available that are very effective on small
weeds and for working near garden plants. They include the springtooth
hand cultivator and the trowel. These tools limit the gardener
to working solely on their knees.
There are a variety of effective tools that allow the gardener
to stand while removing weeds. They include the scuffle hoe,
the Warren hoe, the onion hoe, and the Garden Weasel. Scuffle
hoes come in several shapes and are "push-pull" weeders that
require no lifting. One of the most popular is the Dutch version,
which is an open stirrup with a blade. Others consist of triangular
plates. Most scuffle hoes are lightweight and are effective on
small weeds. The Warren hoe has an arrowhead shape and
can be used to scratch a furrow with one end; when turned upside
down the two shoulder points fill in the furrow. The onion
hoe is a thin bladed hoe that is recommended when removing
weeds near vegetable plants, as it is easier to handle than large,
heavy hoes. Onion hoes can be made by grinding a common hoe so
that the blade is thin, allowing more precise maneuvering near
vegetable plants. The Garden Weasel has three sets of
wheels with spikes that you "push-pull" to cultivate weeds. It
is recommended where numerous small weeds are present. The Garden
Weasel is also useful in breaking soil crust to aid vegetable
crop emergence.
Several implements can be used to cultivate weeds. Push
plows, also called push cultivators, are inexpensive and also
very effective in killing small weeds. The large wheel versions
are usually easiest to push. For large weeds, a garden tiller
or small tractor is most effective. Regardless of the implement,
cultivate no deeper than 2 inches deep to prevent root damage
to vegetable plants. Cultivators should normally be adjusted
to throw soil around the base of crop plants and over any emerged
weeds that are present in the row. Row spacing can be adjusted
to allow close mowing near the soil surface to control weeds.
Self-propelled rotary or sicklebar mowers and/or mowers with
large rear wheels are easiest to maneuver. Weedeaters fitted
with plastic string can also be used to cut weeds near the soil
surface. Extreme care should be used for crop and personal safety.
See manufacturer's warnings prior to operating all equipment.
Adapted from David W. Monks
and Larry Bass, North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service,
2000
Pesticides
are poisonous! Read and follow all safety precautions on labels.
Handle carefully and store in original containers out of reach
of children, pets or livestock. Dispose of empty containers
immediately, in a safe manner and place. Pesticides should never
be stored with foods or in areas where people eat.
When trade names are used for identification, no product endorsement
is implied, nor is discrimination intended against similar materials.
Be sure that the pesticide you intend to use is registered for
the state of use.
The user of this information assumes all risk for personal injury
or property damage.
For more
information, call the URI CE Gardening and Food Safety Hotline
at 1-800-448-1011 or (401)874-2929 from outside Rhode Island;
Monday-Thursday between 9 am and 2 pm.
University
of Rhode Island Cooperative Extension provides equal program
opportunities.
|