Start Right:

• Prepare the site well.

• Remove stumps, construction materials and other debris.

•  A minimum depth of good topsoil is 6 inches.

•  Adjust levels for good surface drainage.

• Test soil pH and adjust to 6.0-7.0 with ground limestone.

• Cultivate to provide a uniform, fine, firm (but not compacted) seed bed for seed or sod.

• Apply starter fertilizer before planting. See GreenShare Factsheet on Developing a Fertility Program for Lawns for more information

• Choose seed or sod carefully. Inspect sod for diseases, weeds, insects, overheating, etc. Choose good quality, pathogen-free seed. Disease and insect-resistant (endophytic) cultivars are now available and should be included in blends and mixtures. Increasing the genetic variability in the lawn will reduce the chance for epidemics that kill large areas. See GreenShare Factsheet on Selection of Turfgrass for more information.

Other landscaping decisions will affect lawn health. Pruning of tree branches will increase light penetration, allowing better turfgrass growth. Trees, shrubs, and other plantings should be placed to allow good air circulation, ensuring that the turfgrass will dry quickly after rain or dew. In very shady areas, shade-tolerant grass species or cultivars may survive, but it is preferable to plant other ground covers. See GreenShare Factsheet on Growing Turf under Shaded Conditions for more information.

Seed should be planted only in well-prepared soil with good drainage when temperatures stay in the 60-85 degrees F range to allow rapid germination and establishment. Keep soil and seed moist, but do not overwater. Overwatering may result in fungal damping-off diseases.

Routine Care:

Fertilizers: Apply according to recommendations based on a soil test. Excess nitrogen will cause succulent growth that is more susceptible to disease. Examples where excessive nitrogen causes enhanced disease severity include:

a) leaf spot season in early spring,

b) brown patch and Pythium blight during hot, humid summer weather,

c) snow molds and winter injury if N applications occur just before dormancy in fall.

A deficiency of nitrogen often encourages some turfgrass diseases; examples are dollar spot, red thread, pink patch and rust.

Herbicides: Apply the appropriate herbicides according to the label instructions. Herbicides can stress lawn grasses and may make them more susceptible to diseases such as leaf spot.

Liming: Adjust pH with ground limestone according to recommendations based on soil test results. Some diseases increase at pH extremes (too high or too low). For example, lime applied late in autumn can increase pink snow mold. High soil pH may encourage summer patch. See GreenShare Factsheet on Liming for more information.

Mowing:

• Mowing wounds the leaf blades (allowing fungal entry) and spreads disease-causing organisms (pathogens) in turfgrasses. Minimize wounding and shredding of turfgrass leaves by keeping mower blades sharp and adjusted properly.

• Mow when grass is dry.

• Mow lawns at a height of 2.5-3.0 inches, using the maximum height in hot weather.

• Mow only 1/3 of the total height at each cutting to avoid stressing the turfgrass.

• Don't "scalp."

• Mow in autumn until the grass stops growing.

• Collect clippings only if they are excessive and during disease outbreaks.

• See GreenShare Factsheet on Mowing for more information.

Watering:

Water is necessary for good plant growth, but too much water floods the air pores in the soil, depriving roots of oxygen. Roots will subsequently die. Many disease-causing fungi reproduce by spores that, like seeds, need water to germinate. Dry leaf blades reduce disease by not favoring spore germination and infection by fungi.

• Water infrequently but deeply, to a depth of 6 inches.

• Water early in the day, so the turfgrass will dry quickly.

•  Night watering after dew appears may help with water conservation but is not recommended on hot, humid nights because it can increase some diseases, especially brown patch and Pythium blight.

•  Avoid light, frequent sprinklings and do not water in the late afternoon or early evening.

• In very hot, dry weather, daily watering may be necessary to prevent wilt and dormancy. Areas along walls, sidewalks and driveways may also need to be watered more frequently.

• See GreenShare Factsheet on Efficient Watering of Turf for more information.

Thatch:

Thatch is an accumulation of decaying organic residues between the green portion of the grass plant and the soil. When thatch is more than 1/2 inch thick, it reduces nutrient and water absorption and harbors insect pests and disease-causing pathogens.

Prevent excess thatch formation by avoiding excessive fertilizer, insecticide, herbicide and fungicide use. Excessive thatch can only be mechanically removed. Coring frequently on 2 inch centers is the most effective means.

See GreenShare Factsheet on Thatch for more information.

Compaction:

In areas of poor turfgrass growth due to compaction, coring will help aerify the soil and improve turf quality. Compaction is associated with many turfgrass diseases including necrotic ring spot, red thread, rust and summer patch.

Adapted from the University of Massachusetts Extension, 1999