Roses are among the most popular garden flowers grown in America, with new varieties produced yearly. Many roses require constant and almost meticulous care in order to produce healthy plants and beautiful flowers. However, in recent years disease resistance and ease of maintenance have become sought after traits. Many new roses, especially shrub roses, are easy to grow and are widely available through garden centers and plant catalogues.

Soil:

Roses will grow in a variety of soils, but it is important that the soil be well drained--if drainage is inadequate, install a 3 inch agricultural drain tile. Soil pH should average between 5.5 and 6.5. A soil test will determine the actual pH of the soil and whether lime or sulfur will be needed to correct its acidity.

Exposure:

Air circulation and full sunshine are important for growing healthy plants. Roses should be planted where air circulation is not hampered by screens, walls, fences, buildings, hedges or other plantings, and should receive a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. If possible, it is better for the plants to receive sunlight in the morning--bright afternoon sun will eventually affect the color of the flowers.

Fertilizing:

Roses are heavy feeders, especially when in flower. They will not require additional fertilizer the first year if they have been properly planted in the spring. Roses planted previously will require two or three applications of a complete fertilizer during their growing season. Two to three tablespoons of 5-10-5 fertilizer per plant are applied in early spring after the winter protection has been removed and the plant is pruned to remove damaged wood. The second application should be made in June, when the plant is in flower. If weather permits, a third application may be made before the middle of August.

Fertilizer should be applied when the soil is moist. Work gently into the soil and water amply. Caution should be taken not to let fertilizer come in contact with foliage or canes.

Watering:

Thorough, infrequent watering is preferable to light, frequent watering in rose culture. Roses should be watered only when needed, with enough water to penetrate the soil to the depth of the root system--about one foot. Watering from overhead is not recommended, as it tends to encourage the growth of fungus. Place the garden hose or soaker in the bed and allow the water to run slowly.

Mulching:

The application of a mulch in the summer helps to conserve moisture and keep the roots cool. Pine needles, buckwheat hulIs, ground corn cobs and peat moss are all excellent mulches. Pine needles and ground corn cobs are loose and allow for better air circulation. Buckwheat hulls and peat moss should be worked into the upper two or three inches of soil. Buckwheat hulls are very light and may be blown away by even light winds. Peat moss should be kept damp--once dry it is difficult to re-moisten.

Mulches should be applied when the soil is damp and placed to a depth of about one to two inches. (Note that the soil should be tested every year or so, as mulches may alter the soil pH.) Additional nitrogen may also be needed to replace that used by the mulch in the decomposition process.

Pruning:

Pruning needs vary with the kind of rose. Pruning is done to remove old, weak and diseased wood and conflicting canes, and to maintain the proper size and shape of the plant.

• Remove the flowers as soon as they begin to fade during the first year after planting.

• Remove dead canes at the base of the plant and remove diseased or damaged wood to a point just below the damaged area and above a growth bud.

• Pruning is usually done in the early spring, after the winter protection has been removed or when the buds begin to swell.

• Prune canes back to an outside-facing bud in order to avoid crowding of branches in the center of the plant and to create an open center for the best Iight and air movement. Caution should be taken to leave at least three buds on each cane to insure good growth.

Many roses, especially hybrid teas, have been grafted or budded on understock of a different species. It is important that any growth below the graft or budding points be removed. Although the understock is often more vigorous in growth, it produces inferior flowers. If the plant has more than five good canes from the base, thin them by removing the weakest ones.

When pruning a rose, make a slanting cut no more than 1/4 inch above a growth bud. Make certain that the pruning shears are clean and sharp. Dull clippers cause jagged cuts favorable to fungus growth. Unclean shears may spread disease.

Pruning Tips:

Climbing Roses - During spring flowering, remove the oldest canes. Immediately after flowering, cut laterals back to a length of 6 to 12 inches.

Climbing Hybrid Teas - Little pruning required, except for thin, weak shoots. Do not prune severely before the plant is established or it may lose its climbing habit. After 2 years, some of the oldest wood may be removed.

Floribundas - Prune in the spring after the buds begin to swell, otherwise average pruning. Prune back to the second bud below the flower head.

Grandifloras - Prune as for floribundas. Remove 2-year old canes, leaving 3 to 4 buds from the base of the plant.

Hybrid Perpetuals - Prune as for fIoribundas. In early spring, remove all dead, weak or injured growth and then thin to leave 4 to 8 vigorous, well spaced shoots. These may be cut back to 2-3 feet from the ground.

Hybrid Teas - Moderate to light pruning recommended.

Polyanthus - Little pruning required. In the spring remove old canes and those which failed to bloom the previous year.

Ramblers - Prune immediately after flowering to remove old and recently flowered wood. Prune vigorously. Leave new shoots unpruned except for dead and diseased wood.

Shrub - Prune to remove dead and diseased wood.

Cutting Roses For Indoor Use:

Roses should be cut in the early morning. Make the cut 1/4 inch above an outward pointing leaf bud, making sure to leave at least 3 leaf buds on the cane.

Adapted from Clifford W. Collier, Jr and John Jett, West Virginia University Extension, 2000