Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) are dependable, easy-care perennials. They are prolific and colorful bloomers, and their color range and height variation allows them to fill a variety of garden niches. Daylilies are tolerant of drought and flooding, immune to heat stress, tolerant of most soils and grow well in full sun or light shade. Relatively free of pests, daylilies make a carefree addition to the garden. Different varieties of daylilies can be in bloom from late spring until autumn. Individual flowers last only one day, but since each plant produces many buds, the total blooming time of a well-established clump may be 30 to 40 days. Many varieties have more than one flowering period.

Landscape Use:

Daylilies are used for color in shrub borders and in perennial beds. They are excellent ground covers on slopes. Once established, their roots will help prevent erosion. Small cultivars can be planted in containers.

Growth Habit:

• Daylilies can range in height from 8 inches to 5 feet. Flower size ranges from as small as 2 inches to as large as 8 inches.

• Daylilies may bloom the year that they are planted, even from a relatively small plant. They will reach full size in three to four years.

Growing Conditions:

•Daylilies grow best in direct sun or light shade. Cultivars with darker-colored flowers should be protected from strong afternoon sun, which may fade the petals.

• Daylilies prefer slightly acidic (pH 6 to 6.5), well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. They are, however, very tolerant and will grow in almost any soil with adequate drainage. If drainage is a problem, plant daylilies in raised beds.

• The best time to plant daylilies is during the early fall or early spring, when soil temperatures are moderate, although daylilies will tolerate planting during any time of year. Plant daylilies 18 to 24 inches apart. Set the plant so that the crown (the point where roots and foliage meet) is no deeper than 1 inch below the surface of the soil.

• Water plants thoroughly after planting, and continue to deep-soak them at least weekly until established. Although daylilies are drought-tolerant once established, consistent watering while budding and flowering improves the quality of the flowers.

• Although daylilies will grow adequately without fertilizer, light fertilization is recommeded for optimum growth. They prefer moderate nitrogen and higher rates of phosphorous and potash. Slow-release fertilizers are best for daylilies. Fertilize in the early spring as new growth appears, and once again in midsummer. Water after applying fertilizer. Mulch helps to conserve moisture in the soil and control weeds.

• Remove spent blooms and seedpods after flowering to improve appearance and encourage rebloom. When all the flowers on a scape (the daylilies° flowering stalk) are finished, cut off the scape close to ground level. Remove dead foliage from daylilies as they die back in the fall.

Propagation:

Daylilies rapidly form dense clumps. Dividing the clumps is not essential, but will help the plant to continue to produce optimal flowers. Dividing is usually done following flowering, but plants will tolerate division throughout the entire growing season. To divide a clump, lift the entire clump out of the soil with a garden fork. To separate the clump into individual fans (sections with a set of roots and leaves), shake it to remove as much soil as possible, then work the roots of individual fans apart.

Daylily seeds are ready to harvest when pods turn brown and start to split. Seeds germinate in approximately two weeks. Plant freshly harvested seeds in pots or flats in any suitable germinating mixture--vermiculite or a commercially available soilless mixture containing peat moss, vermiculite and bark, styrofoam beads or perlite. Cover the seeds to a depth of 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Place germinating containers in partial shade to prevent them from drying out. Seedlings should be transplanted to flats or pots when they reach 4 inches in height. Space 2 inches apart in flats or transfer to 3-inch pots. Seedlings can be transferred to nursery beds when they develop adequate roots and are from 4-6 inches tall. It usually requires two years for plants to develop and flower from seeds.

Problems:

Daylilies have few disease or pest problems. Thrips, spider mites, aphids, slugs and snails are the main pests of daylilies. Aphids feed on both daylily foliage and flower buds. Aphids are more of a problem during the cool spring period. In addition to the tiny insects themselves, cast-off skins (resulting from molting) indicate their presence. A serious infestation can cause foliage damage and mar the appearance of flower buds.

Thrips can be a serious daylily pest. Small, winged insects about the size of an exclamation point (!), they find their way into plant crowns and bloom buds prior to opening, causing misshapen or discolored blooms.

Spider mite damage of daylily foliage often goes undetected until the damage is severe, as the pest itself is difficult to see. Russeting or speckling of the foliage results from the mites feeding on the chloroplast of cells. A serious infestation can reduce the vigor of plants appreciably. Leaves may lose their characteristic green color, turn tan and even die under more severe mite pressure.

There are several sprays available for the control of these pests. Read labels carefully before applying any pesticide.

Cultivars:

Hybridizers have made great improvements in daylilies. The only colors originally available were yellow, orange and a brassy reddish color. The daylily color range now includes palest lemon, bright yellow and gold, orange, scarlet, carmine, maroon, wine-reds, pale pink, rose, lavender, lilac, grape and melon. Blues are the only color still unavailable in daylily flowers. Near-whites are found among the palest tints of yellow, pink, lavender or melon.

Adapted from the University of Georgia College of Agricultural & Environmental Services, Cooperative Extension Service, 1999