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While
mulches are not new to landscapes, interest in them is growing as
gardeners adopt water conserving habits and other environmentally
sound practices. Mulch is an organic or inorganic material applied
to the soil surface during the growing season or applied over the
plant during the dormant season. An important characteristic of
mulch is its ability to insulate a plant and its roots from the
effects of extreme temperature fluctuations.
Ideal
mulches must allow water and air to enter and exit the soil. They
should be attractive, odor-free and stay in place. Ideal mulches
should not compact or become a fire hazard. Although no single mulch
material will meet all these requirements, select one that best
suits the needs of your site.
Conserves soil moisture
Moderates soil temperature by insulating the soil surface
Reduces soil compaction caused by equipment and people
Reduces soil erosion from wind or water
Slowly increases soil fertility through decomposition (organic
mulches only)
Reduces incidence of disease by protecting above-ground plant
parts from splashes that carry soil-borne inoculum
Reduces fruit rot by eliminating contact between fruit and
soil
Reduces winter injury by minimizing temperature variation,
reducing water loss in plants and decreasing heaving of plant crowns
and roots
Aids weed control
Most
gardeners use organic mulches, which are derived from plant material
and imitate naturally occurring forest or prairie litter. Gardeners
can develop their own organic mulches by recycling yard waste such
as chopped or shredded leaves, branches, wood chips or grass clippings.
Organic mulches can also be purchased from garden centers.
An important value of organic mulches is that they continuously
add organic matter to the soil surface. Earthworms and other organisms
will incorporate this material into the upper soil area. When the
planting bed is renovated, the gardener can work this organic mulch
into the soil deeply enough to actually incorporate it into the
root zone.
Inorganic
mulches include lava rocks, pebbles, plastic or landscape fibers
which neither break down and improve soil structure nor add nutrients
to the soil. If a site requires renovation, inorganic mulches can
be difficult to remove, whereas organic mulches can be easily incorporated
into the soil.
Dark-colored
inorganic mulches, such as plastics, warm the soil more than organic
mulches. Black plastic will raise the soil temperature to approximately
five degrees higher than uncovered soil. Clear plastic will warm
the soil even more, to 10 degrees higher than bare soil.
Plastic
is an effective mulch material for some crops, such as strawberries
or tomatoes, where the plastic is removed each year. Plastic is
not an effective mulch, however, for landscape plantings containing
trees or shrubs, as it restricts movement of gases between the soil
and the atmosphere. An adequate root system to support vegetative
growth will not develop under plastic, which prevents adequate root
intake of oxygen. Regulation of the proper level of soil moisture
is also difficult under plastic. A drip irrigation system located
under this mulch is necessary to efficiently and effectively apply
water.
Unlike
plastic, landscape fabrics (geotextiles), are porous. Oxygen and
other gases and water enter and exit these fabrics, making them
a suitable mulch for trees and shrubs. There are, however, several
disadvantages to using landscape fabrics as mulch--when the pores
in this fabric become filled with soil or other organic material,
for example, weed seed can germinate above the fabric. If the fabric
is covered with an organic mulch to hide its appearance and extend
its life, the roots of woody plants can also become intertwined
with the fabric, and considerable root loss can occur when these
plants are transplanted. Always cover landscape fabrics with an
inorganic mulch such as pebbles. Another disadvantage of landscape
fabric is its tendency to slide off of sloped surfaces.
Growing
Season Mulches
Some mulches are intended to function for only a brief time. A mulch
applied to a newly seeded lawn, for example, is designed to reduce
loss of soil and plant moisture until the turf is established. On
steep slopes, mulch can prevent erosion until a new planting is
established.
In spring, allow the soil to reach the optimum temperature before
applying mulch. For warm-season crops, such as tomatoes, apply mulch
when soil temperatures reach 70 degrees F. Cool-season annuals such
as pansies are mulched in early spring as soon as new growth begins.
In summer, mulching materials low in nitrogen, such as straw or
coarse sawdust, should be fortified with a nitrogen fertilizer.
One tablespoon of ammonium sulfate per one bushel of mulch, applied
once or twice in spring, will prevent yellowing of plant material.
Scatter fertilizer uniformly on surface of mulch, then slowly water
in.
Dormant
Season Mulches
Dormant season or winter mulches reduce injury by moderating temperature
fluctuation and reducing foliar moisture loss. These mulches reduce
frost heaving of the crown and upper roots caused by repeated thawing
and freezing of soil water. In the fall, apply a loose mulch after
several hard freezes (temperatures below 20-30 degrees F). If applied
too early, the mulch will delay the plant processes that allow the
plant to tolerate cold temperatures. After mulching, avoid pruning,
adding nitrogen or any activities that stimulate new growth. Rose
bushes and strawberries especially need winter mulch. Remove mulch
in spring when new growth is visible. If a late freeze threatens,
re-cover plants.
Over-mulching (maintaining mulch at depths greater than three to
four inches) has reached epidemic proportions in managed landscapes.
With fine organic mulches, such as compost or shredded leaves, maintain
a two to three inch layer. For coarse materials, such as wood chips,
maintain a three to four inch layer. Mulches decompose in time;
their rate of decomposition depends on particle size and composition.
Plan to add more mulch occasionally, but do not exceed the recommended
layer depths.
Use
very little, if any, mulch on poorly drained soils, for the mulch
will keep the soil too wet, fostering both root rot and growth of
toxic compounds injurious to the plants. If mulch must be used in
a wet environment, use a coarse, textured mulch only.
Grass
clippings are an effective mulch but require some preparations before
use. Allow the clippings to dry before application; grass clippings
are high in water and nitrogen and readily ferment. The heat and
ammonia released in fermentation will injure or kill other plants.
Before applying the dried clippings, mix with compost or an organic
material low in nitrogen. Do not mulch with grass clippings that
have been treated with an herbicide.
Do
not use reflective mulches, such as white rock, close to a building.
The reflected heat warms the building in summer, increasing the
cost of air conditioning and also causing winter injury to plants
from unseasonable rapid warming. Be cautious about using a wood
mulch near the foundation area of a home. This provides an environment
attractive to termites from which the pest can gain access to the
home. Use a crushed, non-white rock border to keep wood two feet
away from the home.
Table
1. Mulches and their characteristics
| Mulch |
Advanatages |
Disadvantages |
Reapplication
Frequency |
| Organic |
| Peat |
Coarse
textured
Increases water-holding capacity of most soils
Over time, could increase soil acidity |
Expensive
Difficult to re-moisten after it has dried
Repels water
|
1
year |
|
Wood
Chips/
Shredded Wood
|
Decompose slowly
Improve the soil
Long lasting and attractive
Relatively inexpensive
Easily applied |
Injury to plants may occur if applied too heavily
Wood chips may not cling well on steep slopes
Do not use near building foundations
|
1-2
years, depending on size and type of wood |
| Straw |
Inexpensive
Readily available |
Coarse appearance
May contain weed seeds and some diseases |
Needs
frequent applications |
| Lawn
Clippings |
Readily
available
Usually free
Decompose slowly
Improve the soil |
May mat down and interfere with water and air movement if applied
too thickly
May contain weed seeds
May contain herbicides |
1
season |
| Leaves |
Readily available
Usually free
Decompose slowly
Improve the soil |
May mat down and interfere with water and air movement if applied
too thickly
Should be shredded and partially decomposed before using
(prevents matting and soil nitrogen binding) |
1
season |
| Pine
Needles |
Fragrant
Decompose slowly
Improve the soil
Over time, will increase soil acidity |
Not always available
May mat down if applied too thickly |
1-2
years |
| Coca
Bean Hulls |
Attractive and fragrant
Good soil conditioner |
Tends to float away during heavy rains
Expensive
Will decompose by mildewing |
1
season |
| Inorganic |
| Plastic |
Completely inhibits weed growth until it tears
Helps garden beds look neat |
Cracks easily from low temperatures or ultra violet instability,
allowing weed growth
Expensive
Allows no water or air to enter or leave soil, stressing
roots under mulched plants
Needs a supplemental irrigation source |
Variable |
Lava
or
Crushed Rock |
Sometimes
used to give a formal look |
Expensive
Lava is very lightweight--tends to blow, roll or wash
away
Allows weed growth
More ornamental than practical |
Indefinite |
| Newspaper |
Prevents weed germination
Effective between vegetable rows
Readily available
Sterile |
Can blow away if not weighted down
Unsightly in landscape setting |
1
season |
| Landscape
Fabric |
Allows
water and air to permeate
Durable
Suppresses most weeds |
Weeds
may germinate on top of fabric
Cover with light top mulch to prevent fabric deterioration
(landscape fabrics that are ultra violet stabilized do not need
to be covered)
May shed mulch cover on steep slopes |
Indefinite |
Adapted from
Donald H. Steinegger and Amy Greving, Nebraska Extension, 2000

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