|

Nutsedge,
or "nutgrass", Cyperus esculentus, is a lawn weed with erect
triangular yellow-green stems and narrow, grass-like leaves originating
at the base of the plant. Its seedhead is yellow-brown in color.
Nutsedge is an adaptable weed that makes its home in low ground
along water courses or in rich sandy soils where gardening is practiced.
It is a triplet species because it can reproduce from a perennial
base, nut-like tubers beneath the soil surface and by seeds. The
nut-like tubers are what make nutsedge difficult to eradicate. If
the plant is not completely removed from the soil and the tubers
remain, they can produce new plants in your lawn.
New
Lawns
The greatest source of weed seeds in new lawns is the soil itself.
Planting at the proper season with the right grasses and adequate
fertilization at seeding time are the most important practices in
minimizing weed problems. In the Northeast, late summer (August
20 - October 1) planting is almost the only means of preventing
nutsedge from taking over the lawn. When planted in late summer,
the grass plants will spread laterally and the turf will be dense
and mature before most troublesome lawn weeds appear.
Established
lawns
Most common lawn weeds can be greatly reduced by improved lawn care,
including proper fertilization and mowing. Sometimes, however, weeds
persist in spite of good maintenance.
For small lawns or where there are only a few weeds, hand pulling
as weeds appear can give good temporary results. Weeds can be pulled
more easily after a heavy rain or watering. The use of herbicides
to control weeds is more practical for large areas, more difficult-to-pull
weeds and small patches of persistent weeds. Large areas can be
treated with sprays or granules, which give good weed control with
minimal injury to turfgrass. Single clumps of weeds can be spot
treated. Aerosol "spot weeders" are available for such areas. When
weeds infest an area of any size and the populations are high enough
throughout the area to be objectionable an overall treatment with
a selective chemical that will kill the weeds and leave the grass
unharmed may be necessary. Where weed infestation is serious and
the turf is poor, consider renovating the lawn.
Check the herbicide label for the proper way and most effective
time to apply herbicides.
To
minimize weed problems:
- Select the recommended grass for your site
- Plant your new lawn in the late summer
- Use adequate fertilizer (and limestone if needed), especially
when starting a new lawn
- Mow your lawn to a height of at least 1-1/2 inches to better
compete with weeds
- Control diseases and insects that damage turf and allow weed
encroachment
- Water the lawn deepl andthoroughly, not too little too often
If necessary, apply bentazon (Basagran) in late June
to early July; repeat in 10 to 14 days if necessary. The high rate
has injured ryegrass turf; avoid such applications during hot weather
to minimize the chances of injury; or apply halosulfuron (Manage)
at the 3- to 8- leaf stage with an nonionic surfactant. A second
application may be needed 6 weeks later; or apply methanearsonate
(MSMA) when first active spring growth occurs. Repeat the application
in 10 to 14 days. It may discolor the turf.
Adapted
from Tom Kowalsick, Cornell Cooperative Extension, 2001

|