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Nectarines can be used in the same way as peaches, and may be considered as substitutes for peaches. The only difference between peaches and nectarines is the lack of fuzz on the nectarine skin. Nectarines tend to be smaller and more aromatic than peaches and have more red color on the fruit surface. Fresh peaches provide respectable amounts of the antioxidant vitamins A and C in addition to potassium and fiber. Nectarines provide twice the vitamin A, slightly more vitamin C, and much more potassium than peaches. There are hundreds of different peach cultivars (varieties), which can be divided into two categories--the freestones and the clingstones. In freestone types, the flesh separates readily from the pit. In the clingstone type, the flesh clings tightly to the pit. The flesh may be either yellow or white. Freestone types are usually preferred for eating fresh or for freezing, while clingstone types are used primarily for canning. Nectarines may be either yellow or white-fleshed. Selecting Peaches and Nectarines for Consumption: High quality peaches and nectarines are firm and free from defects such as bruising and insect or disease damage. The best ripe peaches and nectarines have a deep yellow or creamy white color, although color varies according to cultivar. Green color indicates immaturity. Peaches and nectarines harvested when too green may shrivel or fail to develop a desirable flavor upon ripening. The red blush makes the fruit attractive but may not be helpful in determining fruit maturity. Peaches and nectarines that cannot be consumed or processed immediately should be stored in an area with temperatures of 32 degrees F and high-humidity (a home refrigerator may work well). It is best to use or process the fruit as quickly as possible since it is highly perishable under high temperatures and not well suited to prolonged cold storage (more than 14 days). Selecting Peaches and Nectarines for Planting: Peach trees are subject to some serious insect pests and diseases. A season's crop may frequently be lost either by flower bud kill due to low winter temperatures or to bloom kill by late-spring frosts. The best chances for success in growing peaches in the home landscape result from selecting bud-hardy cultivars, protecting the bloom from late-spring frosts and managing insects and diseases. Peach and nectarine cultivars do not require cross pollination and set satisfactory crops with their own pollen. A single peach or nectarine tree can, therefore, be expected to bear crops in the home landscape if flower buds or flowers are not killed by low temperatures. Site Selection, Soil Preparation, and Planting: Peaches or nectarines require full sunlight and should not receive shade from buildings or tall trees. If possible, select a site with a high elevation so that cold air can drain away from the tree on a cold night during bloom. The best site will have well drained, sandy, loam type soil. Peach or nectarine tree roots or rootstocks will not tolerate soils where water remains on or near the surface for more than one hour after a heavy rain. Prepare the soil one to two years before planting so that soil pH, organic matter, and nutrient status can be modified for the production of high quality peaches and/or nectarines. Prepare a bed at least 5 to 6 feet in diameter by cultivating (spading) 10 to 12 inches deep and adding organic matter such as manure, leaves, grass clippings and compost. Have your soil tested and apply lime and fertilizer as recommended (See GreenShare Factsheet on soil testing). For best results, sample soils 6 to 8 inches deep every two to three years. Plant your tree in the spring in the center of your prepared area. Keep the bud union 1 inch above the soil. Planting a peach or nectarine tree too deep in the soil can cause poor growth or death. Training and Pruning: The open center system is recommended for peach and nectarine trees for maximum sunlight exposure, maximum yield and best quality. Pruning and training should be done in the year of planting and every year after to develop a strong, well balanced framework of scaffolds (a tree with a strong trunk and well positioned side branches), as well as to maintain the balance between vegetative growth and fruit production. Immediately after planting, prune the tree back to a height of 26 to 30 inches. Cut off all side branches to leave a whip (a shoot without lateral branches or with lateral branches removed) that is 26 to 30 inches tall. Although this may sound drastic, the best shaped open center trees come from those pruned initially to a whip. During the first year, remove diseased, broken and low-hanging limbs. Remove vigorous upright shoots that may have developed on the inside of the main scaffolds, which, if left, could shade the center. During the second and third years, remove low-hanging, broken and/or diseased limbs. To maintain the open vase, remove any vigorous upright shoots developing on the inside of the tree, leaving the smaller shoots for fruit production. Finally, prune the vigorous upright limbs on the scaffolds by cutting them back to an outward growing shoot. The principles used to develop the trees are used to annually maintain the size and shape of the mature tree. Remove low-hanging, broken and dead limbs first, then remove the vigorous upright shoots along the scaffolds. Lower the tree to the desired height by pruning the scaffolds to an outward growing shoot at the desired height. Increase Fruit Size Through Thinning: In years without frost and freeze damage, more peaches will set than the tree can support, and the fruit must be thinned. Approximately three to four weeks after bloom, or when the largest fruit are as large as a quarter, fruits should be removed by hand so that the remaining peaches are spaced about every 8 inches. Fruit thinning will allow the remaining fruits to develop optimum size, shape and color, as well as prevent depletion of the tree. Fertilizer: Apply 1/2 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer or its equivalent 7 to 10 days after planting and the same amount again 40 days after planting. Broadcast the fertilizer evenly 8 to 12 inches away from the trunk. In the second and third years after planting, the tree should receive 3/4 pound of 10-10-10 in March and again in May. Mature peach trees (4 to 10 years of age) should receive 1 to 2 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer each in March and May. If the tree is vigorous and there are no fruit expected, only the March application is necessary. Broadcast the fertilizer around the outer edge of the tree keeping the trunk area free of fertilizer. Peach trees need 18 inches of new growth each year. Remove the sod from under the tree, mulch and/or irrigate as needed. Irrigation will increase yield particularly if it is applied three weeks before harvest. Insect and Disease Management: It is very difficult to grow peaches or nectarines in the home garden without an effective pest control program. Common insects and mites affecting peaches and nectarines include tarnished plant bug, stink bug, oriental fruit moth, plum curculio, peach tree borers, Japanese beetle, green June beetle and European red mite. Common peach and nectarine diseases are peach leaf curl, brown rot, scab, bacterial spot and powdery mildew. Refer to GreenShare Factsheets on these specific pests and diseases for more information and control recommendations.
Adapted from Gary Gao, Ohio State University Extension, 2000
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