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There are two types of hedges, formal and informal. The formal hedge
is pruned or sheared to a definite size and shape one or more times
each growing season. The informal hedge, often a row of shrubs planted
close together but allowed to grow normally, is pruned annually
to thin out the oldest wood and to maintain a desired height and
width.
After
planting, small shrubs one to two years old should be cut back to
about 6 to 10 inches above the ground. This will force new shoots
near the ground to develop into a thick, bushy shrub. Delay in cutting
back at planting, a fault of many gardeners, will result in a leggy,
unsatisfactory hedge later.
Older
shrubs used to start a hedge can be cut about one-third from the
top. This helps develop a thick, bushy hedge of many twiggy stems.
No additional pruning is needed on newly-planted hedges until the
next spring.
The most important step in starting a new hedge is the first shaping
the next season after planting. A narrow pyramid or inverted "V"
is the recommended shape. For example, a hedge 5 feet high should
be 2 1/2 feet at the base and about 1 foot at the top to be in good
proportion.
The
top of the hedge should be trimmed slightly rounded or pointed.
This allows sunlight to reach the lower branches. If the top becomes
as wide or wider than the base, the lower portion is too shaded
and produces thin weak growth. A taller hedge requires more attention
to maintain proper shape and taper.
Hedges
can be kept vigorous for years by annually thinning out a third
to a fourth of the oldest branches with hand pruners or pruning
saws. In addition to regular shearing, cut these branches back to
the parent stem at the ground or to a lateral, or side, branch in
the spring before growth starts.
Shrubs
with red or bright-colored winter bark can be kept colorful by cutting
out one-third of the oldest stems each year or prune one-third of
the oldest stems every three years.
Shrubs used for hedges, except evergreens, can be pruned almost
anytime. Slow-growing hedges that require one annual pruning can
be sheared after they have completed their season's growth in early
to mid-June. Fast-growing hedges can be trimmed two or more times,
in early June, mid- to late-July and early to mid-September.
Overgrown,
neglected deciduous hedges can be restored to their former beauty
by one or a combination of methods. Over a three-year period, before
new growth starts in the spring, cut back all branches to a few
inches above the ground, along with regular shearing. Another way
is to cut back the top and sides of the hedge 8 or more inches inside
of the desired height and width in early spring. Follow by shearing
the new growth for a thick, twiggy effect.
No
pruning is needed after planting young evergreens three to five
years old. For the first two years after planting, prune back only
the terminals and laterals as needed to begin the desired shape
and taper.
Pine
and spruce should not be pruned beyond the current season's growth.
These evergreens do not produce new buds or growth from older branches,
but from buds already formed. Prune these conifers to remove only
a part of the new growth.
Pine
hedges can be trimmed with hand pruners or a knife for best effect.
Hedge shears will result in mutilated needles with brown buds and
give the hedge an unsightly appearance. One-half to two-thirds of
the early spring candle-like new growth can be pinched by hand or
cut off before the needles unfold. More pruning can be done again
in late June or early July before the new growth hardens.
Spruce
produce new growth only once a year from existing buds. Spruce hedges
can be sheared in early spring before this new growth develops from
the existing buds. The new shoots can be sheared again in late spring
to early summer, if desired.
Other
evergreens such as taxus (yew), juniper, arborvitae and hemlock
make good hedges. They seldom require more than one pruning in early
spring and again in mid-July, if desired.
Hedge
shears are best used to prune formal hedges. Pruning shears are
used for branches 1/2 to 3/4 inches in diameter. Lopping shears
have long handles, cutting larger branches 3/4 to 2 inches in diameter.
Pruning saws have narrow blades and coarse teeth and are designed
to cut on the pull stroke. Small curved pruning saws are useful
to prune larger shrubs.
Adapted
from Fred K. Buscher, Ohio State University Extension, 2000

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