Skunks usually enter yards seeking reliable food sources. Earthworms and the large, white grubs of the Japanese beetle are often responsible for a skunk's interest. Although it may be possible to remove an individual skunk, another will likely arrive to replace it as long as reliable food is available.

The most effective solution to managing skunk problems is to make your yard unattractive to skunks by eliminating protective cover, potential sites used for dens and food sources (e.g., accessible pet food dishes, uncovered garbage cans, unprotected compost piles). Burrows underneath raised decks and porches are favorite denning locations for skunks and woodchucks, particularly beneath structures having lattice-work or heavy landscaping covering the perimeter, which provide perfect cover and protection from predators. If you find a burrow which appears fresh, you can identify the occupants by putting down a very thin sprinkling of baking flour around the opening or along any access points to the den. If it is occupied, you can identify the occupant by the tracks left in the flour (check a field guide to animal tracks available in most public libraries).

Fencing:

Fencing is one option for skunk control, but fencing an entire yard is not always practical or economical. In order for a fence to be effective, it must be buried at least 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) and the fence should extend in an "L" out away from the base of the fence an additional 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm). Skunks are efficient diggers and readily will dig under an improperly installed fence in a matter of minutes.

Live-Trapping:

Live-trapping can be effective but will rarely provide a permanent solution to problems caused by skunks. A 10 inch x 10 inch x 32 inch cage trap (with a single operating door, not a two-door trap) is needed. For bait, try a can of cat food (fish) or sardines. Cover the trap with burlap, cloth, a plastic garbage bag or other material before positioning the trap. Cover all but the last 3 to 4 inches of the top near the door. Trapping regulations vary according to the state; most states stipulate that traps must be checked at least once every 24 hours and any animals caught must be disposed of within that time period. Relocation is not legal in Rhode Island and is not as humane as many people believe--many relocated animals perish during encounters with predators, motor vehicles, and other individuals of the same species as the displaced individual tries to return to the "home" territory. Relocation may also contribute to the spread of infectious disease (e.g., rabies and distemper) by moving animals from contaminated areas to presently uninfected regions. Homeowners also put themselves at risk of exposing themselves to these diseases if bitten or scratched when attempting to relocate nuisance animals.

Other Options:

The only product currently registered (federal standards) for use on skunks is the sodium nitrate gas cartridge, used to treat burrows. Because they are considered a combustible device, never use a gas cartridge in burrows located beneath or immediately adjacent to a building or in areas dominated by heavy, dry vegetation to avoid a potential for fire.

Adapted from Jim Parkhurst, Virginia Cooperative Extension, 1999. Image from the University of Nebraska-Lincoln.