Powdery Mildew (Erysiphe graminis):

Powdery mildews are common on many kinds of plants. Although they may look the same, each kind of plant is infected by a different species of powdery mildew fungus. Powdery mildew fungi on grasses will not infect lilacs, phlox, roses or other garden plants.

Symptoms: Powdery mildew may appear quite suddenly, usually in shaded areas, and most commonly on Kentucky bluegrass. The grass blades look as if they were dusted with flour or lime. The white to gray powder is a combination of the mycelium and spores of the powdery mildew fungus. The mycelium grows over the surface of the leaf, absorbing nutrients from the plant. Later, the leaf may turn yellowish and begin to dry up and die, but the leaves often support the presence of the powdery mildew fungus for some time without significant injury. Powdery mildew is most common in turf from July to September, and occasionally in the spring. It is most common during overcast periods of cool, moist weather.

Powdery mildew on turfgrass

Close-up of powdery mildew fungus
on grass leaves.

 

Life Cycle: Powdery mildew fungi overwinter on infected grass plants and in survival structures on dead grass. Spores can infect leaves in less than two hours, and new spores are produced in abundance in about a week. Air currents carry the spores to new grass plants. Disease development can be so rapid that powdery mildew may seem to appear very suddenly.

Cultural Management: Powdery mildew is usually a disease of shaded turfgrass. Similar grasses growing nearby in full sun usually will remain free of powdery mildew. To reduce shade and increase air circulation, prune shrubs and tree branches. If grass is thin or weakened in shady areas, re-seed with shade-tolerant grass species and select cultivars resistant to powdery mildew. If grass is growing very poorly due to shade, consider its replacement with shade-loving ground covers such as hosta, pachysandra or lily-of-the-valley. In moist, shaded areas of lawns, powdery mildew may be prevented or reduced by careful lawn care. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer, raise the mowing height and water deeply but infrequently. Avoid frequent, light sprinkling.

Chemical Management: Fungicides are not recommended for powdery mildew control on lawns.

Red Thread (Laetisaria fuciformis) and Pink Patch (Limonomyces roseipellis):

Symptoms: Red thread and pink patch are caused by two different fungi, but they often appear together and under the same environmental conditions. Lawns infected by these fungi may have a pink-to-reddish cast when viewed from a distance. If moist grass is viewed more closely, pinkish gelati-nous growth of the fungi and tiny cotton-candy tufts of spores may be seen. In drier conditions, tiny red threads of the red thread fungus may be observed extending from the leaf tips. The grass itself may show irregular patches of dead and dying leaves, giving the lawn a ragged appearance. These diseases can be found on many turfgrass species but are seen most often on perennial ryegrasses and fine leaf fescues. The diseases are restricted to the leaves and are not usually very destructive. Both fungi occur mostly in the spring and fall in cool (65-70 degree F), moist weather.

Red thread on turfgrass. Photo from the Maryland Cooperative Extension.

 

Disease Cycle: The gelatinous masses of both fungi serve as survival structures in the thatch when dry. The fungi can also survive as mycelium in infected leaves and thatch. Some spores or pieces of fungus may be airborne, but the fungi are commonly spread by water, feet and mowing. Infections are most common on slow-growing grass stressed by compaction, drought, low temperatures or inadequate fertility.

Cultural Management: Although we have no control over periods of prolonged cool, moist weather, it is possible to prevent or reduce red thread and pink patch through good lawn care practices. Soil pH should be maintained at 6.5-7.0 or as appropriate for the turf species. Watering should be infrequent and deep. Avoid frequent sprinklings late in the day that extend the time that the grass blades stay wet. Prune trees and shrubs to increase light penetration and air circulation. Soil fertility must be balanced. These diseases are most common in nitrogen-deficient turf, but be cautious about applying excess nitrogen fertilizer, especially in spring. Other more serious diseases, such as leafspots and melting out, can be enhanced by excess nitrogen. If red thread or pink patch diseases are found in slow growing grass, it may be helpful to temporarily collect clippings during mowing to reduce the amount of fungus returned to the lawn. Aeration of compacted soil will improve turf growth and reduce these diseases.

Chemical Management: Fungicides are not recommended for red thread or pink patch on lawns except in extreme cases.

Rust (Puccinia spp.):

Symptoms: There are many different rust fungi that can infect lawn grasses, but they all have in common the production of reddish, yellowish or orange spores that give "rusts" their name. If only a small amount of infection has occurred, the rust spores will only be seen by close observation of the tiny, powdery pustules on the leaf blades. In severe cases, there may be enough spores present to leave a reddish dust on mowers, pants and shoes. The turfgrass itself may not look particularly diseased until after the infection is well developed. In fact, because spore production does not occur until one to two weeks after infection, rust-infected turfgrass leaf blades are usually mowed away before rust spores can be produced. In rare severe infections, the lawn may look thin and be weakened and more susceptible to other stresses such as drought or winterkill. Rust is most common on Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass, and occurs mostly in late summer and early fall.

Rust fungus on grass blades

 

Disease Cycle: Most rust fungi have complex life cycles that involve two unrelated host plants and many spore stages. The disease cycle on lawns is usually limited to the rust-colored spore stage which rarely survives New England winters. As a result, most rust infections are initiated by spores that are blown up from warmer southern areas. Rust fungi cannot grow without a living host plant. Infection only occurs when water is on the leaf surface and can occur at most normal summer temperatures. There is usually not enough time for spores to be produced on lawns that are mowed regularly, so epidemics are not usually severe.

Cultural Management: The most important way to avoid rust infection on lawns is to keep the turfgrass growing vigorously so that it will be mowed before spores can be produced. Balanced fertility based on soil tests, aeration to relieve compaction, thatch removal and adequate water supply are among the important factors that will optimize turfgrass growth. Watering practices that keep foliage dry as much as possible will help reduce infec-tions by rust and other foliar fungi.

Chemical Management: Fungicides are not recommended for rust diseases on lawns except in extreme cases.

Slime Molds:

Symptoms: A superficial fungus-like growth may appear suddenly on leaf blades of turfgrass in warm, wet weather. Slime molds are initially slimy but mature to a powdery stage when spores are produced. They vary in color from black to powdery gray, pink, yellow or orange. They may occur in large quantities in rainy weather, enough to be observed even at a distance.

Disease Cycle: Slime molds are saprophytes, obtaining their nutrients from dead organic matter in thatch and soil. They are unable to infect turf or other plants as parasites and do not cause any injury beyond that caused by coating the leaf blades. Slime molds are initiated from spores and develop into a slimy film. As they mature, the slime is converted into a mass of powdery spores which may be airborne to new sites. Slime molds are commonly observed on tree leaf litter, rotting wood, turfgrass, wood chips and other organic mulches used in landscaped areas.

Cultural Management: Because slime molds do not infect turfgrass and simply cover the surface of the leaves, they can be removed by raking or hosing the superficial substance away.

Chemical Management: Fungicides are not recommended for slime molds because they do not cause turf diseases and can be easily removed mechanically.

Leaf Smuts (Stripe smut (Ustilago striiformis) and Flag smut (Urocystis agropyri)):

Symptoms: Leaf smuts are named for the powdery black spore masses produced by the smut fungi that infect Kentucky bluegrass and, occasionally, perennial ryegrass. In the spring and fall, at temperatures of 50-65 degrees F, plants may look stunted and yellow, turning grayish just before the streaks of black spores break through the leaf surface. Later, leaves appear twisted and frayed. During hot summer weather, smut symptoms often disappear, but the plants are still infected. They are very susceptible to various stresses, such as heat and drought, and many will die. Smut symptoms may return in the fall, and the fungus will continue to live inside the plant until the plant dies. Smut is usually not reported until lawns are three to four years old, when yellowing and thinning is first noticed and black streaks of spores are discovered.

Disease Cycle: The black dusty smut spores survive in soil, thatch, and on seed. They are easily transported via air, soil, water, feet, seed and equipment. Turfgrass plants are infected by smut only at growing points, and they will remain infected until they die.

Cultural Management: Only smut-free seed and sod should be used to establish new lawns. A few infected plants are easy to overlook, and smut is usually not discovered until infections are more extensive in older lawns. In established lawns, smut will be worse with excess thatch, soil pH below 6.0, frequent watering and excess nitrogen fertilizers. These same factors encourage other diseases as well and should be avoided. After infected plants die out during summer stress, reseed in the fall with a blend of resistant cultivars.

Chemical Management: Only penetrant/systemic fungicides are useful against smut fungi. They are expensive and usually must be applied more than once. Fungicide applications are not economical or practical for most lawn situations compared to reseeding damaged areas.

 

Adapted from the UMass Cooperative Extension, 2000.