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A lawn that is healthy and well-established can out-compete
most weeds and withstand a certain amount of stress from
drought, insects, and disease.
Lawns
can often be renovated simply by improving management such
as proper fertilization, mowing, watering, and addressing
problems with thatch and soil compaction.
Here
are some healthy lawn care tips:
Fertilization
Guidelines - view reference
If a lawn is unfertilized and is considered
acceptable, then do not fertilize. If the lawn is considered unacceptable, assess why ( pests,
compaction, shade, low fertility, etc. ). If fertilization
is needed, consider these fertilization guidelines:
Recommendations for Managing Nitrogen ( N ) on Lawns Recommendations
for Managing Phosphorus ( P ) on Lawns
Other
N and P Management Considerations Recommendations for Managing Nitrogen ( N ) on Lawns  Do
not apply before spring green-up and apply no later than
October 15th. Avoid mid-summer fertilizing.
Apply
one-half to one-third (or less) of that recommended on
the fertilizer bag label and then monitor lawn response.
Reapply at the reduced rate only
when lawn response starts to fall below acceptability.
Slow-release formulations are preferable to soluble, fast- release formulations.
Apply a maximum
of 2 lbs. N / 1000 sq. ft. / year on an established lawn 10 years old or
older. Newly seeded turf, especially on new home sites where the topsoil
has been removed, may require more.
If a soil test
indicates phosphorus (P) and / or potassium (K) are adequate, then fertilize
with only nitrogen (N). If only blended fertilizers are
available, choose the one with the lowest P content.
Back
to top
Recommendations for Managing Phosphorus ( P ) on Lawns
Always
test the soil to determine phosphorus levels before applying.
Soil test annually for P when applying organic fertilizers
derived
from composts to ensure that P levels do not become excessive.
If
phosphorus fertilizer is required: Avoid
using P fertilizers on bare ground or on low-density lawns,
unless it is a new seeding.
Use
P-free fertilizer on established lawns, unless soil tests
indicate P is too low.
Avoid
applying phosphorus fertilizers when moderate to heavy
rain is in the forecast.
Never
apply phosphorus fertilizers to saturated or frozen
ground. Back
to top:
Other
N and P Management Considerations:
Return
clippings and mow as high as possible (leave at least 3
inches). Clippings can supply slow-release nitrogen to
the lawn and allow for reduced fertilizer applications.
On a well-established lawn, this can often supply adequate
P and K for the lawn.
Choose
grasses, such as fescues, that require less water and
nutrient inputs.
Maintain
a soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0. This will ensure that most
of the nutrients necessary for good turfgrass growth
will
be available to the grass plants. Monitor pH levels
to determine if liming is necessary or not.
Consider
seeding white clover or other legumes into the
lawn to naturally provide nitrogen. View our Davisville
Demonstration Site.
If
supplemental watering is applied, avoid overwatering.
Do not exceed a total of 1 - 1 ½ inches
of water per week, including rainfall amounts.
Water wisely.
Leave
a buffer strip of at least 25 feet of unfertilized grasses
or other vegetation around water bodies (streams, rivers,
lakes, estuaries, bays, coastal areas, vernal pools, wetlands,
or drainage areas).
Avoid
using combination products that include both fertilizer
and weed killers as the application rates of such products
are based on the weed killer rather than the fertilizer.
Pesticides should not be applied within 25 feet of surface
water.
When
establishing a new lawn, organic matter content should
range from 3% to preferably 5%. Incorporate compost or
another organic material into the soil to raise the organic
matter content as needed.
Back
to top:
Proper
application methods
It
is very important to measure
the actual area to be treated with
fertilizers and/or pesticides and to calibrate
your spreader. This ensures that you are applying the
amount of product that
you intend.
Avoid
spreading fertilizer on paved areas or near storm drains
or drinking
water
wells.
Sweep up these
areas with a broom, do not wash with a hose.
A
drop spreader can allow for more accurate
control around critical areas.
Compost
and other organic fertilizers are still
sources of nutrients,
so they must be applied at
the proper rate and time using sound application
methods.
The
same applies when applying a pest control product. Avoid
weed and feed products and routine pesticide
applications. Nutrients should
be applied based on soil
test results and managed
separately
from pest management. Use
the following Integrated
Pest Management techniques:
View our page on alternative
white grub control as an
example:
- Properly
identify the pest problem.
- Is
the problem bad enough to warrant chemical treatment?
- Learn
about the pest -- identify cultural, mechanical, biological
options for controlling the problem.
- If
chemical control is necessary, is spot treatment an option
or is uniform application needed?
- Are
there chemical control options that are less
toxic and / or occur in a less risky formulation (granular
instead of spray)?
- Be
sure that the pest problem is not self-induced due
to improper
fertilization, watering and mowing practices--these
can cause shallow roots, disease and other lawn health
problems.
- Choose
the right lawn grasses. View our Davisville
Demonstration Site.
URI
Plant Protection Clinic:
(401) 874-2900
Assistance with identification of plant insects and disease
Grass
clippings are a pollutant
when washed directly
into surface waters and
storm drains. Recycle
grass
clippings on the lawn, compost them in a safe
place away from
water resources, or use them as mulch
in beds. View our page, Recycle
your yard waste,
for more information.
Back
to top:
Soil
Compaction, Thatch and Mowing
Soil compaction and thatch build-up
result in shallow roots and reduced water
infiltration and air flow. Mechanical soil
aeration, vertical
mowing (thatch removal) and coring can
help loosen compacted soil. It is not unusual for
residential lawns to contain shallow
top soil and compaction from frequent vehicle access and
foot and animal traffic.
Thatch is a dense layer of dead grass, stems and roots that
develops
between the soil surface
and the growing grass. While some thatch is
normal and desired, excessive thatch problems are often
a sign of over-watering and improper mowing.
Mechanical de-thatching in the early fall is recommended
for
lawns with more
than
one
inch of thatch build-up.
Proper
mowing at the correct heights and frequencies with a sharp
blade is very important for lawn health.
Mowing at heights between 2 and 3 inches is best to encourage
deeper roots,
discourage weeds and reduce evaporation.
Back to top:
Additional
Resources
University
of Connecticut Cooperative Extension Water Quality
and the Home Landscape
Sustainable
Landscaping: Turf Management Page
URI Master Gardener Hotline
at 1-800-448-1011
URI
Plant Protection Clinic: (401) 874-2900
Assistance with identification of plant insects and disease
Soil
Testing Labs
University
of Connecticut soil testing lab
University of Massachusetts soil testing lab
Nutrient
Management Guidelines for Turfgrass Sod Production in Southern New England
Davisville
Demonstration Site -- lawn
renovation with shade tolerant
grass mix and white clover. |
Davisville
Demonstration Site -- alternative white grub control
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