
June
23, 2004. URI CE Botanical gardens lawn -- consists
predominantly of turf-type tall fescue, fine fescue
and white clover. Lawn clippings are returned,
providing a
slow steady
release
of
nutrients
and improving soil organic matter content and
soil moisture holding
capacity. The lawn is generally not watered and
allowed to go dormant during periods of drought.
An
attractive, healthy lawn requiring minimal fertilizer,
pesticides and water. |
Here
are some healthy lawn care tips:
*Build
lawn fertility naturally and use fertilizers and pesticides
responsibly:
Don't
Guess, Soil Test. Apply
only the amount of lime and fertilizer the grass actually
needs. The only way to know is to test your soil.
Rhode
Island soils are naturally acidic and routine lime applications
are often needed. Maintaining
a soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0 through
liming is very important for lawn
grasses. When soil pH drops below 6.0, a number
of nutrients become less available to the
grass. Generally, lime
should be applied at a rate of no more than
50 lbs.
per 1,000
sq. ft.
per
application at any time except for when the
ground is frozen.
When soil test results indicate a need for
supplemental nutrients, choose fertilizer sources
wisely. The
type of fertilizer,
and the timing
and method of the
application
is very important for supplying the lawn with
necessary nutrients while minimizing pollution
risk.
- Consider
compost or other organic fertilizer sources, they provide
a slow, steady release of nutrients
over time.
- Consider
fertilizer that contains at least 50% water insoluble
nitrogen, read the label.
- Recyle
the lawn clippings. Recent research at the University
of Connecticut has shown
that fertilizer
needs can be reduced
by 50% or more. Most lawns will
not need more than 2 lbs. N/1,000 sq. ft. per season.
Apply
no more than 1 lb. of N/1,000 sq. ft. per application.
Apply one application in May and another application
in
September. Do not apply fertilizer after October 15th
to reduce pollution risk. Proper mowing and use of
a mulching mower is important and will not contribute
to thatch problems.
- Do
not over-water, this greatly increases pollution
risk. Water
Wisely.
Proper
application methods. It is
also very important to measure
the actual area to be treated
and calibrate your spreader. This
ensures that you are applying the amount
of fertilizer that
you intend.
Avoid spreading fertilizer
on paved areas or near storm drains or drinking
water
wells.
Sweep up these
areas with a broom, do not wash with a hose.
A drop spreader can allow for more
accurate
control around critical areas. Compost and other
organic fertilizers are still sources
of nutrients,
so they must be applied at the proper
rate and time using sound application
methods.
The same applies when applying a pest control product. Avoid
weed and feed products and routine pesticide applications.
Nutrients should be applied based on soil test results
and managed separately from pest management. Use the
following Integrated Pest Management techniques:
- Properly
identify the pest problem.
- Is
the problem bad enough to warrant chemical treatment?
- Learn
about the pest -- identify cultural, mechanical, biological
options for controlling the problem.
- If
chemical control is necessary, is spot treatment an option
or is uniform application needed?
- Are
there chemical control options that are less
toxic and/or occur in a less risky formulation (granular
instead of spray)?
In
properly identifying the problem, be sure that it is not
self-induced due to
improper fertilization, watering and mowing practices--these
can cause shallow roots, disease and other lawn health
problems.
Grass clippings are a pollutant when washed directly
into surface waters and storm drains. Recycle grass
clippings on the lawn, compost them in a safe place away
from
water resources, or use them as mulch in beds. See
our information sheet, Recycle your
yard waste for more information.
*Address
problems with soil compaction, thatch, and mowing.
Soil compaction and thatch build-up
result in shallow roots and reduced water
infiltration and air flow. Mechanical soil
aeration, vertical
mowing (thatch removal) and coring can
help loosen compacted soil. It is not unusual for
residential lawns to contain shallow
top soil and compaction from frequent vehicle access and
foot and animal traffic.
Thatch
is a dense layer of dead grass, stems and roots that
develops
between the soil surface
and the growing grass. While some thatch is
normal and desired, excessive thatch problems are often
a sign of over-watering and improper mowing.
Mechanical de-thatching in the early fall is recommended
for
lawns with more
than
one
inch of thatch build-up.
Proper
mowing at the correct heights and frequencies with a sharp
blade is very important for lawn health.
Mowing at heights between 2 and 3 inches is best to encourage
deeper roots,
discourage weeds and reduce evaporation.
*Choose
the right lawn grass mixes.
Later summer/early fall (August 15 - September
15) is the best time to establish a new lawn seeding
or over-seed an existing lawn. It is a time of less
weed pressure, cooler temperatures and ample rain fall.
A slice-seeder is one way
to introduce new seed into an existing lawn.
- Fescue
varieties of seed are the best for home use. They use less
water, fertilization, and require less maintenance. The
basic types of fescues are Turf-type Tall Fescue and
Fine Leaf Fescue. Others include Creeping Red, Chewings,
Sheep, and Hard Fescues. A combination of Turf-type Tall
and fine fescues is best.
- White
clover is a legume that “fixes” nitrogen
from the air and converts it to a form that plants
can use, boosting natural soil fertility.
White clover does attract bees which may not be desireable.
For
more information on lawn nutrient management topics:
University
of Connecticut soil testing lab
University of Massachusetts soil testing lab
Order forms and sampling instructions are available on-line
Compost
Developing
a Fertility Program for Lawns
General
Lawn Maintenance and Renovation
A Guide to the Nutrient Value of Organic Materials
Lawn
Spreader Calibration
Lime
and pH
Organic
Lawn Care
Understanding
a Turfgrass Fertilizer Label
Efficient
Watering of Turf
Other
important pest control information for lawns:
Beneficial
Insects on Lawns
Biological
Control of Turf Insects
Cultural
Reduction of Turf Disease
IPM
for Turf
Least Toxic Pesticides
Monitoring
Insects on Lawns
URI
GreenShare Factsheet Index and loof for the turf
care link for information about certain insects,
diseases, and
weeds in lawns
and
other lawn care topics. Commonly sought information
includes:
White
Grub Control
Crabgrass
Control
Other
important lawn maintenance information:
General
Lawn Maintenance and Renovation
Lawn
Mowing
What is Thatch?
What is Wrong
With My Lawn? Choosing
Lawn Grass Mixes:
Selection
of Grasses
Endophyte-Enhanced
Grasses
UCONN CE Brochure Fescue to the Rescue
Or contact the URI Master Gardener Hotline
at 1-800-448-1011
University
of Connecticut Sustainable Turf Management Page
This fact sheet is partially based on information provided
by the Univeristy of Connecticut CE Water Quality and The
Home Landscape's Program on sustainable turf management and
research conducted by the Department of Plant Science, College
of Agriculture and Natural Resources.
This fact sheet also contains information adpated from the
URI GreenShare Program's turf care fact sheet series.
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