Welcome to URI Home*A*Syst

Frequently Asked Questions:

Where does the water in my well come from?
The water in a private well is groundwater. Groundwater is water beneath the ground that is found in the spaces between the soil particles or cracks in the bedrock.

Groundwater is part of the movement of water through the environment – commonly referred to as the water cycle.

Wells are placed into the groundwater aquifer to supply water to homes.

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Who owns the groundwater?
• Rhode Island has adopted the Absolute Dominion Rule with regards to groundwater ownership.

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Why test my private well?
• Because no one else will! Private well owners
are responsible for making sure their well water
is safe to drink.

• There are some potentially harmful things that
could be in your well water that are tasteless,
colorless and odorless. The only way to know if
they are present is to test.

• It helps to protect you and your family’s health
and your investment in your home.

See the Residential Water Testing factsheet for more information.

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When should I test?
A routine test should be done once a year. A more complete well test should be conducted every 5 – 10 years.

Also, you should test whenever you notice a change in the water’s taste, smell or appearance.

See the Residential Water Testing factsheet for more information.

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What to test for?
Please see the Rhode Island Department of Health's website for testing suggestions. We have factsheets on many of the suggested tests.

Additional testing may be recommended depending on site conditions or known sources of contamination. Consult the chart for further information:

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What time of year should I get my water tested?
Anytime during the year is fine to test your water. Keep in mind that the test results are simply a “snapshot” of the water quality in the well on the particular day that you take the sample.

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Where to test?
It is important that you have your water tested at a laboratory that is certified by RI Department of Health. You can find a list of these certified laboratories at www.health.ri.gov/labs/waterlabs.php.
It is important that you first determine what tests will be done so that you get the correct sample bottles and instructions. Carefully follow the instructions when collecting your water sample.
For help interpreting your test results, you can contact the RI Department of Health, Office of Drinking Water Quality (401) 222-6867 or URI Cooperative Extension Home*A*Syst Program (401) 874-5398.

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How do I interpret the drinking water test results?
After your water has been tested at a state licensed laboratory, you will receive the test results in the mail.
Each laboratory report looks different. However, for each substance that was tested, the amount of that substance found in the water sample should be reported. You can compare the amount detected in your water sample with the standard that is set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) for public water supplies. Often times, the lab report will list the standard for each substance tested on the report. For more information on water quality standards, see the factsheet Drinking Water Standards and visit EPA’s website.
Most substances in water are measured and reported as a concentration. Depending on the substance, the results will be reported as:
Part per million (ppm) = milligram per liter of water = mg/L
Part per billion (ppb) = microgram per liter of water = ug/L
In addition, the lab will often report the minimum detection limit for each substance tested. This is the minimum amount of a particular substance that can be detected in the sample using the equipment and testing procedures that the lab follows.
For more information on a particular substance of concern, see the factsheet series
The important part about interpreting your test results is whether or not the substance is considered a health threat at the particular concentration found in your water sample. Compare your water test results to EPA’s standards and consult the factsheets mentioned above. For help interpreting your test results, you can contact the RI Department of Health, Office of Drinking Water Quality (401) 222-6867 or URI Cooperative Extension Home*A*Syst Program (401) 874-5398.

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How do I know whether or not I need a water treatment system?
First, you should have your water tested to determine whether or not you have a water quality problem. Private well owners can compare well water test results to Federal Drinking Water Standards that regulate public water suppliers.

Once you have determined whether you have a water quality concern, then you can choose and evaluate treatment systems that are designed to treat for the specific contaminant(s) at the level it is present in your well water. For more information, see the following factsheets:
Questions To Ask When Purchasing A Water Treatment Device

And our factsheets on specific water treatment systems, including:

Aeration Treatment of Drinking Water Supplies

Activated Carbon Treatment of Drinking Water Supplies

Distillation Treatment of Drinking Water Supplies

Ion Exchange Treatment of Drinking Water Supplies

Microfiltration Treatment of Drinking Water Supplies

Ozone Treatment of Drinking Water Supplies

Reverse Osmosis Treatment of Drinking Water Supplies

Ultraviolet Radiation Treatment of Drinking Water Supplies

How do I know the treatment system I am intending to buy will do the job?
The National Sanitation Foundation (NSF) International is a third party, non-profit consumer organization that tests and certifies water treatment systems. NSF sets performance standards for water treatment equipment and evaluates test results of the devices to determine if manufacturers’ claims are realistic. Products that have been tested and certified by NSF and meet their minimum requirements are entitled to display the NSF listing mark on products and literature.

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What type of well do I have?
In addition to regular testing, the first two steps in protecting your private well are to know:
1. Where the well is located on our property
2. Identify the type of well construction

There are 3 types of well construction: dug wells, driven wells, and drilled wells.

Dug Well
• Dug by hand or machine into a sand and gravel aquifer
• Lined with pre-cast concrete, stone or other material (older wells)
• 10-30 feet deep
• Typically older in age
• When you lift the cover, you will see the groundwater in the well

Driven Well
• From the surface, it may look very similar to the dug well photo above, but when you lift the cover, you will see:
• A screened well point is driven by machine into a sand and gravel aquifer
• Less than 50 feet deep

Interactive Well Diagram

Drilled Well
• Drilled by machine into a sand and gravel or bedrock aquifer where groundwater is stored in the cracks in the bedrock
• 100 ft deep or more

See the Drinking Water Wells factsheet for more information.

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What can I do around my home to protect my drinking water well?

• Test the water regularly.
• Maintain your septic system, have it inspected and pumped regularly.
• Clean up pet waste and dispose of it in the garbage.
• Don’t store hazardous household chemicals near your well.
• Remove debris and brush from around the well.
• Prevent water from pooling around the well.
• Repair cracks in the casing or cap immediately.

See the following factsheets for more information:
Household Hazardous Products and Water Quality Protection
Pet Waste and Water Quality Protection
Shoreland Buffers and Water Quality Protection
Water Conservation In and Around the Home
What You Can Do About Nonpoint Source Pollution

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Is the construction of private wells regulated?
Yes, the Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management regulates the siting, design and installation of private wells. Any work done on your private well should be conducted by a registered well driller or pump installer. You will find a listing of these individuals at DEM's website.

There are also minimum distances from some potential contamination sources.

How far should a private drinking water well be sited from potential pollution sources?

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How do I know how much water my well can produce?
The well yield is an estimate of how much water your well can produce. The well yield is the amount of water that can be pumped from the well continuously for a set amount of time. The amount is usually measured in gallons per minute.

See the Private Well Yield factsheet for more information.

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How do I select a private contractor to work on my well?
The RI Department of Environmental Management (RI DEM) regulations state that a registered well driller or pump installer should be hired whenever any work is conducted on a private well. The RI DEM Office of Water Resources maintains a listing of registered well drillers and pump installers. This list is on-line at http://www.dem.ri.gov/programs/benviron/water/permits/privwell/index.htm. Or you can call RI DEM at 401-222-4700.

See the Selecting a Private Well Contractor factsheet for more information.

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My tap water has a rotten egg smell - what is causing this?
Water containing hydrogen sulfide has a "rotten egg" smell. Hydrogen sulfide gas is a nuisance that is not usually a health risk at concentrations normally found in household water. It is often caused from the presence of sulfur-reducing bacteria present in groundwater. These bacteria use sulfur as an energy source and reduce naturally occurring sulfates (minerals) which produce hydrogen sulfide. These bacteria normally exist in oxygen-deficient environments, such as deep wells and plumbing systems.
See the Hydrogen Sulfide and Sulfate factsheet for more information.

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What is the proper way to disinfect household plumbing?
Disinfection is the common solution to a bacteria problem in your drinking water. To disinfect an existing drinking water well:
1. Mix 1 pint of household chlorine bleach with 5 gallons of water.
2. Pour into the well through the top.
3. Run the water at each faucet until a chlorine odor is detected at each tap.
4. Close the faucet and allow the chlorinated water to remain in the well and piping system for a number of hours, preferably over night.
5. Run the water at each faucet until a chlorine odor is no longer detected.
6. Wait at least 24 hours after no chlorine odor is detected before collecting samples for analysis.
Disinfection may only be a temporary remedy. The most important consideration is to find and eliminate the source of the contamination. For more information on bacterial sources, see factsheets Bacteria in Drinking Water, Iron and Manganese in Drinking Water , and Hydrogen Sulfide and Sulfate in Drinking Water. Naturally occurring bacteria from the soil and surface water runoff can be detected in well water when well construction is in need of repair.

See the Drinking Water Wells factsheet for more information.

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I live on the coast and have a well that I use only for outdoor watering. The well contains sea water. Is this safe for my plants?
Private wells in coastal areas can draw seawater, causing them to have a high salinity. It is difficult to determine how much "seawater" is safe for landscape plants since every plant has a different salt tolerance. However, here are some things to consider:
Sea water has an average salinity of about 35,000 parts per million. According to horticulturalists at URI Cooperative Extension Education Center, water with a concentration over 500 parts per million begins to be unhealthy for even the hardiest of plants. However, each plant type will react differently to the amount of salt in water depending upon its sensitivity.
The URI Cooperative Extension GreenShare Program has published The Sustainable Plant List, which lists plants that contain some salt tolerance. You will find the listing on their web site at http://131.128.91.217/maynard_susplants/html_spl2000/index.htm
It would also be important to monitor soil salt levels through a soil test.

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Is it safe to use pesticides and fertilizers near my well?
Your drinking water quality can be affected by what you do within in the immediate vicinity of your well. When it comes to using pesticides and fertilizers in the home landscape, it is important to consider:
• Well location and construction
• The chemical properties of the fertilizer or pesticide in question
• The proper use of fertilizers and pesticides

As best you can, create a protection area around your immediate wellhead area and consider using the least toxic alternatives and building natural soil fertility in this area. Leave a minimum 10 to 20 foot buffer zone around the well where yard and garden care products are not applied. If your well is shallow, has old construction, and the soils around your well are sandy with very rapid drainage, you may need a larger protection zone, such as 50 feet to keep your well safe. Best Management Practices along with routine, annual water testing are extremely important in these cases.

Well Location and Construction:
Our fact sheet on Drinking Water Wells steps you through the importance of well location, well type, maintaining sound well construction and preventing surface runoff from entering the well area. It helps you determine what type of well you have, the average depth it may be, and why a given type of well may be more susceptible to potential contamination from surrounding land uses.
When it comes to using pesticides and fertilizers, the best approach is to leave a minimum 10 to 20 foot buffer area around the immediate well area where no products are used. The immediate well area is best kept in low maintenance grasses that can tolerate low fertility and maintenance. Avoid having dense shrubs, groundcovers, decking, sculptures, and flower and vegetable gardens within close proximity to the well, because they increase the risk of attracting wildlife – especially ground-dwelling rodents and reptiles. Pressure treated wood and some other materials can leach contaminants into the ground nearest the well.
Our fact sheet on Drinking Water Wells also summarizes Rhode Island state regulations for the distance between a well and various land uses such as roads (50 feet) and septic systems (100 feet), as well as other good housekeeping practices such as:
• Do not store pesticides and fertilizers near the well.
• Do not fill spreaders/sprayers near the well.
• Do not keep pets near the well.
• Do not store and maintain fuels and motorized equipment near the well.

Chemical Properties of Fertilizers and Pesticides:
The fertilizer and pesticide properties to be most concerned with include:
• How leachable is the product? Is it likely to move through the soil and into groundwater? Is the product soluble in water? The more soluble the product the more likely it is to leach.
When it comes to fertilizers, we are most concerned about the nitrate form of nitrogen. It is very soluble and mobile and tends to leach into groundwater. Commercial, quick-release fertilizer blends usually contain the nitrate form of nitrogen or a form that quickly converts to nitrate. This is the form of nitrogen that plants need and why they respond or “green-up” quickly after use.
Compost and organic fertilizers contain nitrogen that is in a more stable form and that slowly breaks down to the nitrate form over time. These fertilizer options provide for less risk of nitrate movement into groundwater. Slow-release fertilizers contain 50 percent or greater water-insoluble nitrogen (WIN). Read the label to determine the amount of WIN.
When it comes to pesticides, some have chemical properties that make them likely to leach into groundwater. Other products may be more likely to bind to the soil and are at higher risk of traveling in runoff. If your well construction is in need of repair or otherwise subject to runoff, this is also important to take into consideration.

Other pesticide properties to consider include:
• How quickly does the product break down? Some products are more persistent in the environment than others.
• How toxic is the product? Always consider using the least toxic alternative.

The pesticide label is the law and it may specify whether or not to you can apply the pesticide within a certain distance of a well or other water resources. You may need to contact the URI Home*A*Syst Program at 874-5398 to get assistance with identifying the pesticide properties. In addition to the product name, we would need to know the active ingredient, concentration of the active ingredient, and the formulation (is it a spray, granular, etc.) This information would be contained on the pesticide label. You may be able to locate a copy of the label information on-line by searching the product name and typing the word label after it. For more information, EPA webpage on reading and understanding pesticide labels; Extension Toxicology Network where you can research pesticide properties, and The National Pesticide Information Center.


Soil Type is Important:
In addition to the chemical properties, soil type is an important factor that contributes to the movement of water and contaminants through the soil. Contaminants can move more readily through sandy, well-drained soils.
Proper Use of Fertilizers and Pesticides – Management Practices that can make a difference:

Fertilizers:
• Soil testing -- With regards to home landscaping in general, fertilizer applications, including organic fertilizers, should only be made according to soil test results. Use sound application techniques such as calibrating the spreader and accurately measuring your treatment areas.
• Grass types -- Low maintenance, low fertility lawn grass mixes such as fescues and white clover are a good landscape choice right around the well area. White clover is a legume that fixes nitrogen from the air and makes it available for plant uptake.
• Leave clippings on the lawn to provide a natural, slow release of nutrients. Learn about other ways to build natural soil fertility in lawns.

Visit our Healthy Landscapes webpage on healthy lawn care and proper fertilizer and pesticide use for more information.

Pesticides:
• Identify the pest.
• Use the least toxic alternative to pest control.
Contact the URI Master Gardener Hotline at 1-800-448-1011 for more information on properly identifying a pest problem and identifying alternatives for treatment that may include various cultural, mechanical and biological methods than can reduce or eliminate the need for chemical controls. There may also be alternative chemicals that are less leachable, toxic and persistent. This is important for your entire home landscape, but especially important when in close proximity to your well.

• Proper watering is critical when using fertilizers and pesticides. Do not over-water the lawn as this can greatly increase pollution risk. Water Wisely.

Test your water on a routine, annual basis:
Private well owners should arrange to have their drinking water tested annually. For more information, see our fact sheet on Residential Water Testing and our private well protection web page.

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Is there any such thing as a well owners handbook?
A publication titled “Water Systems Handbook” published by the Water Systems Council .

What do I do if my well has been flooded?
Do not turn on the pump and do not drink or wash with the well water. Follow these EPA guidelines: What To Do After The Flood. For further assistance contact RI Department of Health.

How do I abandon an old well?
Follow the DEM Regulations when temporarily or permanently abandoning a private well.

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What is backflow and how can it be prevented?
Backflow occurs when there is a change in water pressure that causes water to flow backwards in a water distribution system. An example of this would be when a hose is being used outside to water the garden and someone inside of the house turns on the water. A loss of pressure might occur. If backflow occurs while a drinking water supply is in direct contact with a contaminated water supply, the drinking water can become contaminated.

To prevent backflow from occurring, make sure you have a backflow prevention device between your hose and hose faucet. A hose-faucet vacuum breaker is a simple, inexpensive screw-on device that can be purchased at plumbing or hardware stores. Homeowners should check that all taps (faucets, spigots) to which a hose may be connected are fitted with hosebib vacuum breakers. They only cost a few dollars each and can be installed by a homeowner. A more effective backflow prevention device called an atmospheric vacuum breaker costs about $50 and should be installed by a qualified plumber who understands water flow hydraulics.

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