Trees can provide privacy, increase property value, save energy and enhance the beauty of your home. Fall is an excellent time to plant trees. Container plants or balled-and- burlapped plants may be planted at any time the ground is not frozen, except very hot weather. Plant barerooted trees in the late fall, winter, or early spring when they are dormant.

Planting a tree may seem simple but it is often done incorrectly. The most common problem is planting the tree too deeply. Shallow is better than deep!

The Planting Hole

The quality of the planting hole will determine the long-term health of the root system. The planting hole should be at least 18 to 24 inches wider in diameter than the root ball. If the soil is compacted or of poor quality, the hole should be even larger - three to five times the width of the root ball. The hole should be wider at the top than the bottom, with sloped walls, because most of the root growth will be shallow and horizontal.

Planting too deeply can stress the plant and drown or suffocate the roots. The easiest way to avoid this is never to dig the hole deeper than the root ball. Soft fill should not be left in the bottom of the hole, as the root ball will settle. In almost all types of soil, the tree should be planted slightly shallow, with the top 2-3 inches of the root ball sitting above the surrounding soil grade. Remember, the planting site will be covered with 2-3 inches of mulch by the time you are finished planting.

The Root Ball

Handle roots carefully during planting - small absorbing roots are easily broken. Check balled and burlapped plants to ensure the roots originate near the surface of the ball. When setting the plant in the hole, make sure these roots are no deeper than the soil grade.

Backfilling

In most cases, it is best to backfill the hole with the same soil that came out of the hole. Research has shown that soil amendments usually do not improve plant establishment or growth. While backfilling, work the soil around the ball so that no air pockets remain. Large pockets of air can allow roots to dry out. Firm the soil so that the plant is vertical and adequately supported, but do not pack the soil. Water thoroughly while backfilling. The remaining soil should be mounded into a berm, on the outer edge of the hole, to collect water over the root zone, especially on sloped sites. Remove all tags or labels so that they will not girdle the trunk or branches as the plant grows.

Mulching

After filling the planting basin with water and letting it drain, fill the basin with 2 to 3 inches of an organic mulch. This will conserve soil moisture, moderate soil temperature extremes, and reduce competition from weeds and turf. Many organic mulches such as pine needles, bark or wood chips are fine.

Make certain the mulch is not touching the plant stem, as this could promote bark decay, crown rot, winter injury or rodent damage. Do not use black plastic or landscape fabric under the mulch, since these materials, sooner or later, restrict water movement and oxygen availability to the roots.

Water and Fertilizer

Planting is a major operation from which most trees and shrubs recover slowly. A major portion of the root system is lost in digging, and the plant must reestablish sufficient roots to sustain itself. During this period, the plant’s ability to obtain and transport water and minerals is greatly reduced, which results in varying degrees of water stress and transplant shock. For this reason, proper watering is key to the survival of newly planted trees and shrubs. If rainfall is not sufficient (generally 1 inch per week), the tree should be watered every five to seven days. A slow gentle soaking of the root zone is preferable. The watering schedule should be appropriate for the soil type and drainage¬ excess water in the planting hole is a leading cause of transplant death.

Since the root system functions of a newly planted tree are limited, fertilization often is not recommended at the time of planting. Excessive fertilizer in the root zone can be damaging, so do not add fertilizer to the backfill.

For more information call the URI Master Gardener Hotline: in Rhode Island, call 1-800-448-1011; out-of-state, call 1-401-874-2900.

For more information on Clark Farms, visit their website.