University of Rhode Island
Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design
TMD 402M Seminar: Fashion for All Ages
Dr. Linda Welters and Dr. Margaret Ordonez
Fashion for All Ages Through the Ages
Alexis Gianforcaro
Dr. Linda Welters and Dr. Margaret Ordonez, both faculty of the Textile, Fashion Merchandising, and Design Department at the University of Rhode Island discussed fashion for all ages in the 18th and 19th centuries. Beginning with the first life stage of birth, they explained the dress of babies which involved wrapping them in swaddling to prevent any accidents. Eventually, babies were no longer swaddled and were dressed in long clothes so they could move around yet still be protected. Since babies can not walk, the long length of their clothes was not an issue. Many of these long clothes were hand made in white linen or cotton fabrics.
Welters and Ordonez provided several examples from the TMD historic textile collection including other garments babies would wear such as shirts, diaper covers, aprons, and belly bands. Belly bands were used to cover the umbilical cord after a child was born. Diaper covers had to constantly be changed and cleaned; aprons were used to protect the other garments from being soiled. Until children were four years old, both boys and girls shared the same styles and outfits. In regards to color, Welters explained that pinks were initially used for boys and girls were dressed in blues. The colors are derived from the planets Mars and Venus, which were indicative to each sex.
In the 19th century, children wore skeleton suits, which were a type of one-piece garment that was worn for playing and other physical activities. These suits had a slit in the front and a drop seat in the back to accommodate for bathroom use. Boys would wear these skeleton suits, which were usually made from a railroad fabric. As children in the 18th century, boys were dressed as “miniature adults” wearing tailored clothing including breeches and waistcoats,
In the 1830s and 1840s, boys typically wore dresses; Welters and Ordonez provided an example of a red and green plaid dress that was once worn by a boy. Sailor suits were also popular amongst young boys. Girls’ dresses were made from calico fabrics; they also had fancy outfits that would mimic adult women styles such as bustles and mono-bosom looks. In the early 20th century, boys’ short outfits were common.
As teenagers, girls wore long skirts and tied their hair back as a sign of maturing; girls were now at the age of being potential wives. Once married, women who became pregnant would wear a wrapper. Wrappers allowed women to go without wearing a corset since they would not be able to fit into one. In the 1830s, wrappers were home made, however, by the 1890s, they were being mass manufactured and became quite popular.
In the 1860s, mature dress kept women concealed. The example used to demonstrate the styles typical of the time was a navy blue dress with military styles trim, pleated front, and coat sleeves. All three elements were very common as well as popular among the women of this time. Welters explained that men’s clothing did not change much because when they were old enough to wear pants, the style did not differ much since that was the common attire for a man. Men also wore dark colors and therefore owned many similar pieces of clothing.
Welters also mentioned the styles of headwear that were commonly used among women during the 18th and 19th centuries. Bonnets were worn outside, however, caps were still worn inside. Women did not typically show their hair when in public or the company of others; only husbands would see it. Mourning bonnets were also a necessity of all women and were made with black fabric. These bonnets would be decorated with jet beads, however, they were not to be extravagant. Crepe fabrics were used to cover the face if a woman was in deep mourning in order to hide her while she cried.