University of Rhode Island
Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design
TMD 402M Seminar: Fashion for All Ages
Linda Welters, Susan Hannel, Margaret Ordońez (TMD Faculty)
Sustainability: Overview of Issues in Textiles and Fashion
Summary by Megan DeSouza
To understand the term “sustainable” and to practice the idea of sustainability in textile and apparel use, one must understand not only the history and historical practices of the textile and apparel industry, but also the many sectors of life that sustainable actions effect. The “Introduction to Sustainability” lecture helped students both define and comprehend sustainability not only as a word, but as an entire concept and way of working and living.
Dr. Welters began by looking at the history of the textile and apparel industry and how the practices of yesterday affect our need for renewable resources and sustainable actions today. Three time periods were examined, starting with the pre-industrial (1600-1860), when fiber, yarns, fabric and clothing were all processed and assembled by hand. During this time, textiles were very valuable, due to their rarity and the amount of work and effort required for production. As technology advanced and factories began emerging, little thought was given to the pollution these facilities created. However, all fibers were natural at this time; there was no extra chemical waste created by synthetic fiber production.
As we moved into the next era, the growing numbers of factories created more pollution as they began to mechanize and produce new synthetic fibers. And while many of these fibers, such as rayon and acetate, were created from renewable resources, many were produced from non-renewable resources such as oil, coal, and gas. So began the greatest age of pollution and destruction. Mechanization of factories created an abundance of apparel and textiles, lowering both the production and final product costs, and making fashion available to the masses.
While advantageous for the masses, this new wave of low-cost apparel ushered in the last and present era, where an overabundance of clothing has led to the idea of throwaway fashion. The 1960s brought us to the age of the one-use paper dress, the popularity of non-biodegradable vinyls and plastics in clothing use, and countless other challenges to eco-friendly living and sustainable production practices. The amount of clothing and fabric being disposed of every year is staggering. And while there have been several trends in the last forty years to “return to the earth”, practicing more eco-conscious fashion with the use of all natural, organic and recycled fibers and fabrics, the damage of hundreds of years of environmental abuse have created an immediate need for a complete lifestyle and industry shift.
Susan Hannel discussed more on this issue, introducing students to the three landscapes of sustainability: ecology, economy, and culture. The ecological challenge faced by the textile and the apparel industry today is how one can design and manufacture clothing without creating a negative impact on the environment. New energy sources, such as wind, solar, and wave energy are being researched; the use of organic fibers and dyes is being reexamined; the toxicity of certain finishes is being analyzed not only out of environmental concern, but out of concern for the wearer as well. Again the issue of overproduction and eventual disposal is raised, and how we as consumers can work with the textile industry to stop this unnecessary waste. Rather than going out and buying a new t-shirt, try redesigning an old one. Wearing vintage and recycling fabric strips from factories are also helpful ideas. But all of these are small steps in a larger lifestyle change that needs to occur, a change that, if not enacted freely, may become a necessity.
Economic factors and money have driven the decisions of the industry for far too long. The decision to manufacture locally or globally is one of such decisions. While local production creates a smaller carbon footprint, the costs are astronomical. Whereas global production lowers costs, but these lower prices encourage not only unfair and unethical labor practices but also perpetuates the idea that a throw-away culture is acceptable, that deplorable personal consumption and continuous apparel disposal are not only tolerable, but normal.
Even the way we launder our clothing must be reexamined, as Dr. Ordonez discussed. From the chemical contents of our detergents, to the amount of water and energy expended by our washing machines, the environmental impact of washing and drying must be taken into consideration. Top loading machines have been the standard in American households since their first mass production in 1908. However, top loading machines require more water and energy than their smaller front-loading counterparts, widely used in Europe. Also, top loading machines leave clothes nearly soaked after the spin cycle, requiring more energy on the part of our dryer. The higher expense of front-loading machines, however, has prohibited their widespread use in the U.S., demonstrating again how economy triumphs over ecology when it comes to consumer behavior.