INNOVATIONthe act or process of inventing or introducing something new
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University of Rhode Island
TMD 402-I - Innovation Fashion for the Home: Taylor Hastie
Summary by Jennifer Robinson |
Design
is an all-encompassing field in which innovation has the possibility of
taking place. Although the ways in which ideas are realized in products
has changed in recent years, new trends always force designers to alter
their creative endeavors. This was the general theme of the lecture given
by Taylor Hastie, who has had many experiences in the home products
industry.
Hastie began with an overview of her varied work experience. She has had leadership roles in the design departments of Williams Sonoma, Martha Stewart, Chambers, 10 Crescent Lane, The Home Depot, and Kohl’s. Most of these companies allotted her a specific sum of money for "research." Hastie would search markets worldwide to find a variety of unique items and antiques, which would be purchased and "modified" to fit specific collection themes. Her intuitive choices led the direction of licensed designs at each of the aforementioned companies, from brand development to production and sales. Most of Hastie’s discussion focused on this application of ideas to licensed product lines. She first emphasized the importance of refining a brand’s identity. Aspects such as the target customer, price point, and design preferences must all be specified and decided to provide differentiation from other companies. Design research must take place, where elements such as colors and patterns must be developed. In Hastie’s case, this included visits to shows, museums, markets, and galleries to find what she termed "authentic" pieces that were purchased for "inspiration". Finally, a line’s development must be placed within a "time and action" schedule, which includes finalizing concepts, presenting information, and working with factories to make a final product. It is important to note that final products are often rejected by licensed "designers" due to a "cheapening" of the components of original concept in production overseas (i.e. stainless steel vs. airbrushed plastic). Hastie also explained the ways in which the home products industry differs from the apparel industry. Home products encompass a variety of merchandise categories, including tabletop, furniture, kitchen, and lighting products, most of which include textile components in some way. Timetables are much slower within these categories; whereas apparel markets shift trends often, the home industry reacts more slowly to changes in taste. Despite this, trends in one market often influence another. While assisting in developing Vera Wang’s home collection for Kohl’s, Hastie noted the connections between that designer’s fashion aesthetics and their application to home textiles. Many anecdotes and pieces of advice were offered throughout the lecture. Hastie emphasized her experience of building a friendly rapport with overseas factories. She also seemed to emphasize the importance of knowledge and intuition in a given field, explaining that one must have the ability to differentiate between the quality of products being made in factories worldwide. Working for different companies involves working with different systems and personalities. At Martha Stewart, for example, many things were done by hand, and color swatches were made to specification (i.e. Pantone numbers were not used). Several important shifts that have taken place recently in the field of design were alluded to throughout the lecture. Hastie pointed out that the fiscal "freedom" she experienced at Williams Sonoma, for example, would no longer be permitted due to the current corporate nature of the company. In addition, many retailers have shifted from "buying" products to "in-house design" of private label products. Finally, emphasis in design appears to have shifted from a more "pure" creativity to a literal translation of designs from the past. Originality in major companies is no longer as significant as copying historic motifs and patterns. In this way, "innovation" loses some of its more creative and ground-breaking qualities. |
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