University
of Rhode Island alumnae play important roles in innovative companies. On
April 8, 2009, Jen Penswick, a material and innovation developer for
Saucony, and Sarah Smith, product developer for New Balance Athletic Shoes
Inc, spoke at their alma mater about the innovative processes and products
that are being produced in their respective companies and throughout the
industry.
Saucony is a Footwear and Apparel Company owned by Collective Brands Inc. Saucony began selling apparel domestically in the spring of 2008, and is currently the number three specialty running store in the US, after Asics and Brooks. Innovation at Saucony focused on materials and trims. Innovative materials in athletic wear consist of sustainable new technical fibers, materials, finishes, and knitting techniques.
The top three fibers for athletic wear are polyester, nylon, and spandex. Polyester is chosen for its moisture management, light weight, and low cost. Nylon is chosen for its abrasion resistance and ability to be dyed bright colors, and Spandex to add stretch for a close fit. Many sustainable materials are being introduced into today’s active wear including both Spun and Charcoal Bamboo, and Cocona a material made from coconut shells, which is processed more naturally than Bamboo. Other natural fibers include Minerale, made from volcanic material, Tencel, made from wood pulp, Seacell, made from seaweed, Indgeo, PLA and Sorona, made from plant sugar.
The production of recycled polyester has doubled in the past ten years. Wool has also grown in popularity among the athletic wear industry due to its excellent thermal regulation, antimicrobial properties, breathability, and static resistance. Technical fibers are also being introduced including X-Static, Cupron, and Polypropylene. X-Static and Cupron are textiles with metal permanently bonded to the surface, X-Static with silver and Cupron with Copper Oxide. These textiles have beneficial properties including antimicrobial and thermoregulation. Polypropylene textiles are made from Olefin fibers and are extremely lightweight, and popular for swimwear and socks.
The
basic components of footwear are the last, the upper material, the
internal components, the lining material, and the outer sole. The last
defines that shape and proportions of the shoe. The upper material of the
shoe can be made up of a variety of different materials and textiles
including leather, suede, polyurethane, canvas, knits, wovens, and mesh.
The internal component includes heel counters and toe boxes which are made
of moldable plastic, a backer, foams, an insole board, or a shank. The
insole itself can be shaped several different ways including; die cutting,
open pour molding, compression molding, and interjection molding. The
lining material is made up of leather or suede. Finally, the outer sole
can be made of rubber, ground contact EVA, leather, and polyurethane.
Innovative shoe designs include the Rocker Sole and Easy Tape. The Rocker Sole reduces pressure on the foot and is ridged heel to toe, allowing the wearer to rock through the walking motion. Easy tape is lighter and one-third the width of traditional hook and loop tape.
Environmentally preferable materials are being used in designs. New Balance works to be environmentally preferable without sacrificing performance. New Balance’s textiles, webbing, and lace must be made with 25% recycled yarn. Leather used is from tanneries audited by the BLC based on water and energy use and given a bronze score or better. Polyurethane content must be made with 25% recycled content. An innovative new material being used by New Balance is Double R, which stands for Rice Rubber, made from rice waste products. Restricted substance guidelines for products such as heavy metals, formaldehyde, PVC, and certain Azo dyes are different in every country. Europe and Japan have stricter product standards than the US. In order to meet standards for those countries New Balance exceeds product standards for the US.
To meet the needs of consumers, companies such as Saucony and New Balance must continue to use innovative practices. They can do this through researching and developing new materials and processes.