TMD 402H - Globalization in the Textile and Apparel Complex

Environmental Issues in the Textile World

Martin Bide, TMD, URI

Summary by Deborah Kavanagh

Within the last few decades, awareness of the environment has increased and more mandates are being set forth by the government in order to help lessen the threats to the atmosphere. A major US agency that helps set laws is the EPA, the Environmental Protection Agency. The EPA assists in informing the manufacturers as well as the general public of standards and guidelines to follow. Threats to the environment occur at every aspect in the garment’s life: during production, consumer use and when the garment is being discarded. Other threats that we face include ozone depletion, water contamination and landfill overflow. 

The production of textiles is a very involved process that combines natural or synthetic fibers, air and water as well as various chemicals, all with the goal of achieving the perfect material for production. In many instances, each step of the process produces some undesirable byproduct. For instance, during the dyeing and finishing production, various pollutants can leak into the water and cause a hazard to those in the area who drink and bathe in the same water, while other pollutants may escape into the air, depleting the ozone layer. Some processes do not involve such harmful byproducts; the cutting and sewing methods result in solid waste that can be dumped at the local landfill. This may become a problem if the landfill becomes over-filled.

Not only is there a threat to the environment during the initial production, but also after the product is purchased by the ultimate consumer. The energy used to wash and dry clothing is high, as well as the amount of water that is required per load. Dry cleaning is even worse: the carcinogenic chemicals used are dispersed into the environment with each garment that is cleaned. The EPA is currently looking for a less harmful solvent to take the place of the one currently in use. 

These potential problems are the same for all manufacturers worldwide. Since United States textile manufacturing has globalized, many production sites have moved overseas. However, the problems facing the environment are universal and need to be addressed with the same diligence worldwide. The US has very strict standards that all production sites must adhere to, even those across our borders producing our goods.  Some of these standards include keeping the water around the plant clean and at a very high degree of quality. Additional mandates concern the storage and disposal of harmful chemicals. To stay in production, these standards must be met at all times.

One day we hope that textile industries will be able to clean up their act for good. When we are able to produce materials without such harsh chemicals and procedures, it will help the industry to flourish and be respected worldwide. Since American citizens are more aware of the harmful and unnecessary ways that the environment is being affected, I feel that there will come a time when they will take a stand and pay more for an organically grown cotton fiber shirt than one that has been doused in many chemicals and dyes and possesses a threat to our future. Hopefully, this time lies not too far in our future.

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