University of Rhode Island
Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design
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University of Rhode Island Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design |
TMD 402H - Globalization in the Textile and Apparel Complex
The Egyptian Cotton Campaign
Jeffrey Silberman, Fashion Institute of Technology
Summary by Kelley Pavia
Jeffrey Silberman has worked with the Egyptian government to promote agricultural reform through the development of an Egyptian cotton logo. Silberman's experience in the textile industry includes employment with Cotton Inc. and overseas fiber consulting. In the midst of developing the Egyptian cotton logo, Silberman was also teaching the textile markets class at URI, and his students assisted him with researching the proposed Egyptian cotton logo in order to promote the fiber. Silberman currently is on the faculty at FIT.
Egyptian cotton is world renowned for its strength, luster, and softness. Egyptian cotton is classified as barbadense and possesses long and extra long fibers that are also very fine. The Giza varieties of barbadense cotton grow only in Egypt, therefore Egyptians aggressively protect this industry by not allowing the exportation of seeds or the importation of any other type of cotton seed. Elsewhere the more prevalent breed of cotton is the hirsutum variety, which is a short, coarse fiber. Pima, a variety well-known among consumers, is a cross between barbadense and hirsutum.Silberman stressed the extensive planning that contributes to the formulation and licensing of a logo. Research involves analyzing the census data of cotton fiber workers, yarn spinners, the quality of the cotton, and the dyeing and finishing process. One issue that surfaced was the U.S. objection to hand picking cotton, equating it with slave labor. Silberman stated that while he was in Egypt it was evident that Egyptian cotton pickers are able to make a living picking cotton, a source of employment that would be eliminated if Egyptian cotton was only mechanically picked. The next step for Silberman was to obtain the approval of the Egyptian government. After securing their approval, the aesthetic details of the logo began to take shape, and a survey conducted by the textile markets class at URI helped determine the most popular logo style. Silberman described how deadlines for the new logo were pushed forward, which heightened the stress level of the project.
Furthermore, the government of Egypt entered into an agreement with WestPoint Stevens to market Egyptian cotton exclusively for one year. This was proposed in an effort to strongly promote Egyptian cotton. The licensing program has had its ups and downs, including being placed "on hold" temporarily after September 11, 2001.Silberman elaborated on the global economy and the
exciting position of the textile industry. Although the U.S. does not attract
much manufacturing, the consumer market is the largest in the world. Silberman
stated that it is more important to own the market than machinery because other
countries will always emerge with cheaper labor. However, in today's tight
economy it is important to move forward and create domestic jobs in order to
shorten the lead-time necessary to produce goods. Also, it is important to
maintain a competitive advantage as Egypt has with barbadense cotton and the
corresponding logo, which attests to the fiber's quality.