University of Rhode Island  
Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design

TMD 402K The Art and Science of Fashion - Speaker Summaries

Dr. Abby Lillethun & Dr. Linda Welters: The Art and Science of Pleats and Folds by Monique Manivanh 

            Whoever said not to mix business with pleasure did not meet the dynamic duo: Abby Lillethun and Linda Welters.  Dr. Lillethun and Dr. Welters visited Greece last summer to attend a four-day international conference on the subject of the sartorial convention of antique and contemporary types of wrapped and pleated garments called Ptychoseis (Greek word for pleats and folds).  Before they attended the conference they did a little sightseeing and a lot of "hut hunting."  They visited the islands of Crete, Santorini, Naxos Port, and Andros.  Though the two had a lot of fun, they still managed to put away their shades and put on their glasses.  Both Dr. Lillethun and Dr. Welters spoke at the conference and later attended an inspirational exhibition that coincided with the conference. 

            The conference was an exploration of variety within a single technique of fabric manipulation across time and space.  It was held in Athens, Greece, and was organized by the Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation (PFF) along with the Cultural Olympiad. The exhibition “aimed to create an international landmark in the field of costume study.” The project was supported by the Hellenic Ministry of Culture and by the General Directorate of Antiquities and Cultural Heritage and also by the National Archaeological Museum.

            At the conference, Dr. Lillethun discussed prehistoric dress.  She elaborated on the apparent movement and character of pleated cloth in the Aegean Bronze Age.  From archaeological evidence, she was able to recreate skirt flounces. 

            While Dr. Lillethun discussed prehistoric dress, Dr. Welters talked about folk dress.  She aimed at the importance of the pleats that the people of Kymi wore.  Dr. Welters concentrated on ethnographic resources, rather than archaeological.  Ethnographic examples of pleats and folds come from around the world.  One example came from Budapest, Hungary where there was accordion pleating.  Another example came from Slovakia, where pleats were shown on collars, sleeves, and skirts.

            The corresponding exhibition they attended aimed to “explore the aesthetic qualities of the plasticity of drapery through selected works of art from the classical period of ancient Greece, regional clothing from around the world as well as high fashion and ready-to-wear creations by contemporary designers.” The exhibition opened with “Colombe,” a dress designed by Issey Miyake in 1991.  The dress was made with one piece of cloth, a monofilament, twill weave, with industrial and leather snaps.  The exhibition showcased one of the oldest forms of dress to be found simultaneously in different cultures, and presented the journey of "one piece of cloth" and also the pleat's tradition through history.

            Dr. Lillethun and Dr. Welters saw how the exhibit influenced contemporary designers.  The new designs reflect many of the Greek aesthetics.  Many new lines are revolving around the theme “Goddess.”  As you know designers today are inspired by designs of the past and art.  The fashions in magazines and on the runway include garments with pleats and folds that are inspired by many different things from many different eras.  However, they were all Greek to me.