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Costume History

This is a guide to selected sources of information related to costume history available at the University Libraries. To find additional information, conduct a Subject search in the HELIN Library Catalog, using Library of Congress Subject Headings such as “Costume” and “Clothing and dress.”

Books on costume for particular countries or regions of the world can be identified in the HELIN Catalog by using the LC Subject Heading “Costume” and the name of the country or region (e.g. “Costume and Asia”) or the name of the country and the LC Subject Heading “Clothing” (e.g. “Armenia— Clothing”).


Dictionaries & Encyclopedias | Guides and Directories | Costume and Fashion Histories | Indexes & abstracts | Access to Primary Sources

Dictionaries & encyclopedias

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URI Ref GT31 .C8
Cunnington, C. Willett. A Dictionary of English Costume. 1960.
Name of each garment followed by the date it came into use and approximate date when it ceased to be fashionable.
 
URI Ref GT507 .D38 1994
Davies, Stephanie Curtis, compiler. Costume Language: A Dictionary of Dress Terms. 1994.
Thorough list of primarily European and European-influenced style terminology throughout history.  Includes illustrations.
 
CCE Ref GT507 .E53 2005
URI Ref GT507 .E53 2005
Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. 2005.  3 vols.
Contains 640 essays of global and interdisciplinary scope covering both the specifics and broader issues relating to clothing and fashion.   Contains bibliographies and index.
 
URI Ref N31 .E533
Encyclopedia of World Art.   1959 - 1983.  17 vols.
All aspects of art and related fields including textiles, costumes, embroidery, lace. Vol. 15 provides index.
 
URI Ref GT513 .K813 1968a
Kybalová, Ludmila, Olga Herbenová and Milena Lamarová. The Pictorial Encyclopedia of Fashion. 1968.
Covers 4,000 years in two parts: a chronology and a glossary of garments and accessories. Plates present period art and illustrations of the costumes.
 
URI Ref GT510 .R3313 1988
Racinet, Albert. The Historical Encyclopedia of Costumes. 1988.
Comprehensive in scope; covers both the history and geography of world costumes.
 
URI Ref GT507 .W5
Wilcox, R. Turner. The Dictionary of Costume. 1969.
List of historic fashion terms with selected drawings.   Includes bibliography.
URI Ref GT507 .Y37
Yarwood, Doreen. The Encyclopedia of World Costume. 1978.
Descriptions cover the history and development of the garment as it was worn in various parts of the world. Black and white illustrations, eight color plates, index and bibliography.
Guides and Directories

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URI Ref GT605 .C56 2006
Clothing and Textile Collections in the United States: A CSA Guide, edited by Sally Queen and Vicki L. Berger. 2006.
Guide to publicly accessible clothing and textile collections in the United States from the Costume Society of America.  Includes listings with basic information and some descriptions of institutional holdings.
 
URI Ref Z5694 .U5 O45 1996
Oliver, Valerie Burnham. Fashion and Costume in American Popular Culture:  A Reference Guide. 1996.
Bibliography containing reference sources on American costume and fashion from the 17th through 20th centuries.  Includes lists of professional organizations, research centers, and indexing and abstracting services.
 
URI Ref Z5691 .O38 1993
Oliver, Valerie Burnham. Costume/Clothing/Fashion Information Access: Sources and Techniques. 1993.
Guide to costume reference sources from the Costume Society of America.  Contains historical directories to businesses in the costume industry and institutions with costume and fashion collections.  Includes bibliographies and information about relevant periodical sources.
Costume and fashion histories

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Print Sources
 
URI Ref. GT510 .B510 .B47 1979
Bigelow, Marybelle S. Fashion in History:   Western Dress, Prehistoric to Present.  2nd ed. 1979.
History of costume from ancient Mesopotamia to Western fashion of the mid-1970's, through illustrations and sketches copied from original artwork.  Includes bibliography and glossary.
 
URI Ref. GT510 .B6713 1987
Boucher, Francois. 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment. Expanded ed. 1987.
Covers prehistoric costume through the fashions of the early 1980’s. Primary references include period sculptures, paintings and photographs depicting Western costume development. Chapter and general bibliographies, glossary and index. Includes shoes, hats, gloves, jewelry.
 
URI Ref. GT513 .B763f
Bruhn, Wolfgang and Max Tilke. A Pictorial History of Costume:  A Survey of Costume of All Periods and Peoples From Antiquity to Modern Times Including National Costume in Europe and Non-European Countries. 1955.
Two hundred plates in black & white and color representing 4,000 specimens of costume.
 
URI Ref. GT580 .C67 1982
Costumes Through the Ages: The Evolution of Styles of Dress Illustrated in 250 Plates and over 1500 Figures:  Drawings. 1982.
Color illustrations only, covering antiquity through late nineteenth-century, worldwide.
 
CCE Ref. GT513 .D38 1965
URI Ref. GT513 .D38
Davenport, Millia. The Book of Costume. 1948.  2 vols.
Covers world costume from early antiquity through the end of the American Civil War.  Primary resources include thousands of photographs of museum collections worldwide.
 
URI Ref. GT607 .M23
McClellan, Elisabeth. Historic Dress in America: 1607-1870. 1969 (Reprint).
Contains many period illustrations, along with photographs of original garments and accessories from museum and private collections.
URI Ref GT513 .B763
Bruhn, Wolfgang. A Pictorial History of Costume: A Survey of Costume of All Periods and Peoples From Antiquity to Modern Times Including National Costume in Europe and Non-European Countries. 1955.
Two hundred plates in black & white and color representing 4,000 specimens of costume.
URI Ref GT513 .L343 1963
Laver, James. Costume Through the Ages: 1,000 Illustrations. 1963.
The First Century through 1930. Drawings based upon original documents, sculptures, manuscripts, engravings, etc.
URI Ref GT580 .C67 1982
Costumes Through the Ages: The Evolution of Styles of Dress Illustrated in 250 Plates and over 1500 figures: Drawings. 1982.
Color illustrations only, covering antiquity through late nineteenth-century, worldwide.
URI Ref GT511 .G65 1987
Gold, Annalee. One World of Fashion. 4th ed. 1987.
Detailed black & white illustrations provide examples of costume, jewelry and accessories throughout history and around the world. Emphasis here is on the illustrations, with concise, historical descriptions.
 
URI Ref GT511 .H38 2000
Harrold, Robert. Folk Costumes of the World. Rev. and enlarged ed. 2000.
Covers 85 countries with short, descriptive essays and full-color illustrations.
 
URI Ref GT513 .L343 1963
Laver, James. Costume Through the Ages: 1,000 Illustrations. 1963.
First Century through 1930. Drawings based upon original documents, sculptures, manuscripts, engravings, etc.
 
URI Ref. GT607 .M23
McClellan, Elisabeth. Historic Dress in America: 1607-1870. 1969.  2 vols in 1.
Contains many period illustrations, along with photographs of original garments and accessories from museum and private collections.
 
URI Ref. GT511 .P46 2004
Peacock, John. The Chronicle of Western Fashion: From Ancient Times to the Present Day. 1991.
Illustrated chronology with color plates of period dress throughout the history of the western world.  Contains brief descriptions of each illustration.
 
URI Ref. GT511 .P4 1991
Pendergast, Sara and Tom Pendergast. Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages. 2004. 5 vols.
Each volume covers specific time periods in world history.   Contains bibliographies and indexes.
 
URI Ref PN2061 .R75 1987
Russell, Douglas A. Period Style for the Theatre. 2nd ed. 1987.
Comprehensive reference to the major cultural style movements of eighteen periods in Western history, from the ancient world through contemporary/post-modern style. Includes costumes, art, interior design, furniture, ornamentation, theater, life, and cultural ideals.
URI Ref GT580 .T67 2005
Totora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume: A History of Western Dress. 4th ed. 2005.
Color plates, photographs and illustrations emphasize costume in context, including historical, cultural and social developments and the technological and economic aspects of clothing production and distribution. Covers all elements of dress for men, women and children for each period. Contemporary commentary on the fashions of the times is included.
URI Ref. GT733 .V57 1983
A Visual History of Costume. 1983. 5 vols.
Contains illustrations, paintings, and sculpture demonstrating period dress and costume from the 14th through 20th centuries.  Brief commentary discusses the dress featured in each illustration.
 
URI Ref. GT615 .T94 2005
Twentieth-Century American Fashion, edited by Linda Welters and Patricia A. Cunningham. 2005.
Essays discussing the social and cultural context of 20th century fashion in America, including analyses of clothing in several sub-cultures, fashion during the Gilded Age, and music and fashion.
URI Ref GT720 .Y37 1975
Yarwood, Doreen. European Costume: 4000 Years of Fashion. 1975.
Black and white illustrations depict the development of fashionable dress from the classical age through the early 1970s. Extensive chapter notes provide sources for the illustrations.
Online sources
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/costhistpage.htm
Costume History at the Costumer’s Manifesto.
Created by Tara Maginnis, a professor of theatre at the University of Alaska, this site provides descriptions and pictures of costume by time period as well as links to related sites.
 
http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/department.asp?dep=8
The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
More than 75,000 costumes and accessories from seven centuries and five continents. Fifty highlights from the collection are presented online in chronological order by creation date.
http://dmla.clan.lib.nv.us/docs/museums/cc/russell_home.htm
Eight Decades of Women's 20th Century Attire.
Sponsored by the Nevada State Museum's Marjorie Russell Center, a Division of Museums and History, Department of Cultural Affairs, State of Nevada. Dresses from the 1900s through the 1970's.  Each section has at least five dresses with new material and additional decades planned.
 
http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/history.html
The History of Costume by Braun and Schneider.
Originally published in 1861. 500 illustrations from ancient Egypt to the end of the 19th century.
http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/reg3.html
The Regency Fashion Page.
Cathy Baker, Ph.D., is a professor specializing in Restoration and 18th century British literature.  Her University of California Riverside site contains numerous links with information and images of fashion during the Regency period, at the turn and beginning of the 19th century.
Indexes & abstracts

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The following titles provide indexing and abstracting of scholarly articles from journals in the visual arts, including costume history.  Articles found in these journals may provide social, cultural, and historical information relating to world dress and costume.

CCE Index (vol. 12, 1959–1995 )
URI Ref Z5937 .A78 (vol. 1, 1929/1932– vol. 51, 2002/2003)
Continued online by Art Abstracts, 1984--
Art Index.
Articles on costume, clothing and dress, textiles, etc. 1984– is also available online, only in the Libraries. Ask for assistance at the Reference Desk.
 
http://www.uri.edu/library/reference_databases/title.html
Continues Art Index.
Art Abstracts.  1984--
Articles on costume, clothing and dress, textiles, and the visual arts. 
http://www.uri.edu/library/reference_databases/title.html
Dissertation Abstracts (ProQuest Digital Dissertations). 1861--
Indexing and abstracts of Ph.D. dissertations from American universities.  Current records include some dissertations from non-American universities and some masters theses.  Two thirds of dissertations are available for purchase online.  Masters theses from the URI Department of Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design are available for downloading.  1861 -.
CCE Index
URI Ref Index Area (vol. 1, 1900– )
Readers’ Guide to Periodical Literature.
Indexes fashion magazines such as Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue. Relevant subjects include “Costume”, “Fashion”, and items of clothing.
 
http://www.uri.edu/library/reference_databases/title.html
Readers’ Guide Retrospective 1890 - 1982.
Accesses almost 100 years of cultural history with references to over 3 million articles that appeared in 373 leading U.S. magazines.
Access to primary sources

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Primary sources are original materials that have not been filtered through interpretation, evaluation or condensation by a second party. Some primary sources include the art of the period, portraits, museum collections, newspapers, films, photographs, catalogs, and advertisements.

  • Periodicals — The University Libraries maintain periodical collections in print, electronic format, and microformat.  To find library holdings of periodicals in fashion and costume, conduct an LC Subject search using Journals/Magazines/Newspapers from the pull-down menu for "Fashion--Periodicals" or "Costume--Periodicals."

    The following resources are examples of those periodicals found within the collection that may provide valuable information for primary source research:

    • Godey’s Magazine -- 1982 - 1898, available in URI Microform Area/Sect.3
    • Harper’s Bazaar -- Incomplete holdings from 1867 - 1913 and 1938 - 1974 are available in Serial Stacks TT500 H3.  Also available in microfilm are 1867 - 1913 and 1975 - 2004.
    • Vogue -- Available electronically from June 2004 to the present.  Paper holdings for 1936, 1949 - 1950 available in Serial Stacks TT500 V7.  Available in microfilm from 1892 - 1910, and 1950 to the present in Microform Area/Section 2.
    • Women’s Wear Daily -- Available electronially from 12-29-00 to present in ABI/INFORM Trade & Industry, http://www.uri.edu/library/reference_databases/title.html.   Also availablein microfilm from 1970 - 2002 in Microform Area/Section 1
  • URI Special Collections, The Commercial Pattern Archive — Unique source comprised of three collections of commercial dressmaker patterns: the Betty Williams Collection, the URI Theatre Department Collection, and the Joy Emery Collection in the Special Collections unit of the Library. Electronic database available only in Special Collections.  Provides multiple indexing points as well as a scanned image of the pattern. Also includes a large number of fashion periodicals and trade catalogs.

For assistance
If you need further assistance, please stop by the Reference Desk or contact either the theatre subject specialist, Mary MacDonald, (401) 874-4653, marymac@uri.edu or the textiles subject specialist, Mimi Keefe, (401) 874-5086, mjkeefe@uri.edu .

M. Keefe·rev. 11/00; rev. B. Kenney 4/02; rev. M. Keefe 9/02; rev. M. MacDonald & C. Cournoyer 1/07

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