Bora Bora was our last island. The resort had around 100 bungalows and we definitely felt the difference in service. They forgot to pick us up at the airport. It wouldn't be a problem except that the airport is on a tiny atoll and the only way to get to your resort is by resort pickup. When the last resort boat left, there was no one at the airport- barely any employees. Thankfully a man helped us and called the resort for us. They came over when they had the boatload of people for the next flight off Bora Bora. The Pearl Beach Resort is the big white dot about 10 o'clock on the map. The black pearl with the three lines is their logo. Vaitape is the main village on Bora Bora.

The room was the best of our trip so it made up for the lack of service. It was a huge bungalow with bedroom, sitting room and its own enclosed private garden. We were right on the beach farthest from the main hotel complex so it was nice and quiet as well. We did have fun watching the people go past on the beach completely ignoring the "TAPU" (Forbidden) sign nailed to a tree and then see them coming sheepishly back. A local family that guarded the rest of the beach for a cruise ship made sure no one got to use it from the resort. The TAPU tree is just behind the palm tree in the picture. That palm also provided us much amusement. It was directly in front of our fare and was the only one leaning so much that a person could sit on it. Every couple who walked along the beach had to stop and take their picture on it. (We finally joined the crowd after a day or so.) There were all sorts of contortions and discussons in order to take the picture. Jim even reported a racy cheesecake photo attempt until the couple realized he could see everything.

Our "room" was so luxurious and the lagoon was just steps away so we didn't venture out much. Jim had to explore where the green ended out in the lagoon. From the pictures it seems like it would be a sharp divide but he says it just gradually gets deeper. One special feature of our fare was the Pavillion. It was an open air living room that connected our fare with the next one and had a privacy wall so it was protected from the main walk. I suppose if a celebrity came they would rent the two fares and the whole thing could easily be secured from the public. We enjoyed it each evening, sipping drinks and watching the sunset reflect off Mt. Otemanu. We could often hear the groups practicing their drums for the Heiva competition from across the lagoon on the main island.

One night we did go over and watch the Heiva. It is a big celebration in French Polynsia during late June and early July. From what we experienced, it was a combination Fourth of July with a big parade on Tahiti plus the County Fair, with competitions in dance, music, games, crafts and cooking. Each night the different villages would compete in huge displays of Tahitian dancing and singing. Afterwards everyone would relax in the cafes set up specially for Heiva or try to win a container of motor oil or a case of beer at one of the games of chance.

After taking Jeep Safari tour on the last two islands, we decided to have more control of our visit to the island. We rented a car for a few hours to tour the main island. Thankfully the Pearl Beach activities desk rented real cars since we found out on our travels around that "rental car" had a very loose definition. You can see two samples of the glorified go carts in the picture. The red one had only three wheels and a set of training wheels for balance. Don't be confused by the OPEC sign behind the cars. It is the offical dealer in Tahitian black pearls. The pearls are absolutely beautiful and they should be for their price. Just one can cost several thousand dollars. There are some beautiful views on Bora Bora but no cultural sites like Huahine or interesting farms like Tahaa. While we drove around we went to some of the other resorts on the island to compare. Pearl Beach was by far the prettiest and our beach bungalow was the best of any we saw.

Everyone we talked to about Bora Bora and every guidebook we found said you haven't been to Bora Bora unless you eat at Bloody Mary's. It is the stereotypical south seas shack that several americans founded and is one of the only independent restaurants there. There is no menu. The gimmick is everyone picks out the fish or steak they want to eat when they arrive. There are a few token desserts but they were pale compared to the ones on Vahine and you could order over-priced drinks from the bar. The guys who founded it are brilliant. The food was okay and the atmosphere was like the many theme restaurants in the states but everyone who goes to Bora Bora eats at Bloody Mary's, even if it is just to say you've been when anyone asks.