"Resources
and References for Fashion Journalism"
by Jamie Ellen Kurtz, '03
This is a compilation of recommended works intended for research in the specific genre of fashion journalism. This ever-evolving and fast-paced industry recently has experienced a surge in the publication of books pertaining to its reporters, photographers and designers. I have personally read some of these books, but unfortunately not all. I have read multiple reviews on the most recent books and feel confident in the general background information I have provided. Some books contain only small amounts of information that would prove relevant in this area of research. Each book offers something different, with information ranging from the origination to the present form of the industry. Together, I believe, these books allow for ample research for students of fashion journalism, the fashion-magazine business, its editors and reporters.
Agins, Teri. The End of Fashion. 2000
This book offers extensive information on the business side of the fashion industry. The rise and fall of Couture houses as well as chronology on houses and designers is available. Information provided describes how mass marketing influences today's lines and how consumers dictate to designers. The book is a beneficial resource, because a senior writer at the Wall Street Journal wrote it. She has covered the fashion business for the Journal for over a decade and her experience and expertise comes through in her writing.
Bill Blass: An American Designer. 2002
This is the second Bill Blass book published since his death. The first was a published collection of memoirs. Helen O'Hagan, Kathleen Rowold and Michael Vollbracht edit the most recent book. Such written accounts of this legendary fashion designer's life might prove helpful in understanding relationships he had or did not have with the fashion press that reviewed his work for so many years.
Brady, James. Super Chic. 1974
This is an amazing first-hand account of the fashion journalism industry from the 1960s to the 1980s. Great details are provided on hugely popular designers such as Coco Chanel. Brady worked with multiple magazines within the industry and dishes our great dirt on the mechanics of magazines; he does not hold back the negative details of their inner-workings. This is an amazing resource as well as a great read.
Coddington, Grace. Grace: Thirty Years of Fashion at Vogue. Summer 2002
Grace Coddington's lists of credits in the fashion magazine world are nowhere near short. She was a former model, legendary editor at British Vogue, creative director of American Vogue, and has three decades worth of work styling fashion shoots for Irving Penn, Helmut Newton and Steven Meisel under her belt. She was a long-time editor at Harper's Bazaar, and her frizzy red hair has made an easily recognizable fashion editor. Her book sold out immediately and its contents are sure to do more than shed light on fashion journalism. This book is highly recommended.
Craik, Jennifer. The Face of Fashion Cultural Studies in Fashion. 1994
This book presents excellent examples of the very first forms of fashion magazines, what news they reported, whom they targeted in society and why they were created. This is an excellent illustration of the creation of fashion magazines and their earliest evolution. Craik writes an important book lending to the research of the construction and origin of fashion magazines. Dr. Linda Welters of the Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design department at URI recommends Craik's book.
Cojocaru,
Steven. Red Carpet Diaries: Confessions of a Glamour Boy. 2003
Cojocaru serves as the West Coast style editor of People magazine and is a regular fashion commentator for the "Today Show." His book received mixed reviews. He is known for gossiping and trashing celebrities. But there might be revalent information on his journey through the business and his experiences at People and writing fashion.
Doonan, Simon. Wacky Chicks: Life Lessons From Fearlessly Inappropriate and Fabulously Eccentric Women. 2003
Simon Doonan has been dressing windows at Barneys New York for 17 years. In his book, he profiles more than 40 women who are on the edge of fashion, innovative, stylish and sometimes "borderline grotesque." He profiles women who have designed, staged fashion shows and published books. Doonan's book might present some intimate information on fashion industry players. This book is worth glancing through as additional research material. Doonan's first book was an autobiography, "Confessions of a Window Dresser." Also check out his weekly column in The New York Observer.
Dwight, Eleanor. Diana Vreeland. 2003
This is the first comprehensive biography of the famous Harper's Bazaar fashion editor. Vreeland released her own memoirs, "DV," in 1984, but she referred to them as half fact and fiction. Reviews say that Vreeland's magazine work is underrepresented in Dwight's biography and she is not referred to as a great editor. Obviously this is highly disputable. She was an incredible editor-in-chief at Vogue. This biography does provide never-before-seen scrapbooks, diaries and letters, as well as quotes from many friends and professional colleagues.
Edition
7L, Dreaming In Print: A Decade of Visionaire. 2003
Recommended reading from November 2003's Harper's Bazaar. "Highlights of some of the more memorable moments in the history of celebrated fashion and art publication."
Mendes, Valerie, and Amy De La Haye. 20th Century Fashion. 1999.
This is a thorough textbook of 20th fashion history. It serves as a great general reference to have while researching any aspect of the fashion industry.
Lee, Michelle. Fashion Victim Our Love-Hate Relationship With Dressing, Shopping, And The Cost of Style. 2003
Lee is the senior editor at US Weekly and has contributed to many well-known news and fashion magazines. This book exposes fashion's drastic influence on our culture and how it has saturated the media as well as many inside secrets of the industry. Not only is this book informative, but it is humorous and an enjoyable to read. Highly recommended!
Lindbergh, Peter. Peter Lindbergh: Stories. 2003
Lindbergh is a highly acclaimed contributing photographer at Harper's Bazaar. This book showcases his work. It might provide additional material on fashion photography, to complement a research paper.
Talley, Andre` Leon. A.L.T. 2003
A.L.T. is the memoir of Vogue's editor at large. This is a must read. Talley is one of the most prominent players in fashion journalism today! Information on his mentor, the late Diana Vreeland, is included in his memoir. This book will definitely supply the reader with a direct look into the fashion-magazine industry and describe the profession in detail. Talley's climb to the top is sure to be an interesting one. Highly recommended!
Tortora, Phyllis, and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume 3rd Edition. 1998
This textbook serves as an excellent resource of fashion history from the origination of fashion in the ancient world to late the 1990s. It provides a small amount of information on the first forms of fashion magazines, as well as present editions and editors of magazines. This textbook works nicely alongside 20th Century Fashion.
Sutton, Mae De Mon. I Reminisce.
This book is recommended reading by Senior Vice President of Fashion Merchandising and Communications for Saks Fifth Avenue, Jaqui Lividini (Harper's Bazaar April 2003). She describes this as a vintage book about a woman who made a career in retail. Lividini says it offers a perspective for anyone who is in the business. She is a collector of vintage fashion books. This book might feature hard-to-find information on the early years of the fashion industry, particularly fashion magazine/journalism information.
Weisberger, Lauren. The Devil Wears Prada. 2003
Weisberger's book is a take on her past job as Junior Assistant to Anna Wintour, Andre Leon Talley's boss at Vogue. The book received very negative reviews. It is a fictional portrayal of an errand girl trying to keep up with her boss' absurd demands and hectic schedule of manicures and facials. This book might prove helpful in grasping the daily routine of fashion-magazine employees, but use other resource before resorting to it.